I'm finally back in New York. Luckily, the eating portion of my trip to Chicago was far superior to my experience at O'Hare. But enough whining. I had a great time in Chicago, and LTH'ers were in good part responsible for my pleasure. I thought I'd issue my Top 10 List of Favorite Bites:
1. The fried rice with Gouramy fish at Spoon Thai
2. The Issan-style sour, light, and spicy soup with beef offal at TAC (these 2 win top kudos because I couldn't stop eating either, long after hunger had been sated)
3. Carnitas at Carnitas Urupuan
4. The squab, especially the confit, at Alinea
5. The hoh mok of mystery at Spoon
6. The boat noodles at TAC
7. The kobe beef dish at Alinea
8. The combo sandwich at Al's (I'm not particularly a fan of Italian beef, but the sausage and hot peppers and the excellent bread won me over)
9. The spicy caponata at Quartino
10. The fried chicken with spicy tamarind sauce at Spoon
Some general musings:
I was mightily impressed with Spoon and TAC. One meal at each isn't sufficient to give me a sense of which I like more. Although I thought there were ups and downs at both places, I think it's safe to say that both of these restaurants' highs are superior to anything in NYC.
The biggest disappointment was Salpicon. Maybe we didn't order well, but I sampled more than ten dishes and a week later, I can't remember a single thing I ate.
The biggest pleasant surprise was Quartino, which was perfect for our needs during the bridge tournament. Adults, kids, the picky, the ravenous, and the weird all enjoyed it and the service and food had little of the theme park feel of Hugo's. The vegetable salads, especially anything with eggplant, the fish entrees, and the pizzas were all terrific.
I don't want to do a "real" review of Alinea for a couple of reasons. One is that Dom's report is unbeatable. And perhaps more importantly, I'm uncomfortable about doing so because I'm friends with one of the investors in the restaurant, and had dinner with him, his wife, and three close friends. We ordered the tour (13 of the 24 courses were identical to Dom's report) and consumed an inordinate amount of wine. And perhaps one of the reasons I enjoyed the five hours (!) so much is that I paid nary a cent for the experience.
I found the experience to be great fun, but I have to admit that my favorite dishes tended to be those with extraordinary ingredients, and the more entreeish items, such as the squab, beef, bison, and hamachi. The hamachi was of the highest quality, but accompanied by dabs of buttermilk and blueberry puddles, and some not very tasty green peanuts. What I remember is the naked fish. Same with the kobe. But the squab and bison dishes were enhanced by the "creative" preparations, for the reasons Dom elucidates in his report. Other than the menthol course, which I liked much better than Dom, I tended to agree with his observations, although I think he's also more enthusiastic about the desserts (I did love the cream cheese course, though).
Next time I come, it won't be for a bridge tournament, and I'll do more neighborhood hopping. As it was, I was confined to one meal a day much of the time. Frustrating, but thanks largely to the generosity of LTH'ers, I ate well in your beautiful city.