Turning this post back around to the original focus, I thought I would add some data points about dining at the Hammond Horseshoe casino itself. No, they do not have frog legs or smelts, but they do have a rather nicely appointed steakhouse, Jack Binion's -- a place with a multitude of faults and charms.
For those who don't like to read to the end, I'll state up front that Binion's is not a destination restaurant; in fact, it is barely competent by Chicago steakhouse standards, with the exception of the steaks themselves, which honestly are fantastic. It's on everything else that they fall down.
OK, not everything. First of all, the bar has rapidly become one of my favorite hangs in the Chicagoland area. Gambler's widowers, lushes, cigar-chompers, extended family ... it's all on a first name basis here. Yet elegant, and with two grandmother mixologists keeping it real. Plus $5.00 for a Maker's Mark Manhattan and a water back ... one drink alone pays the Skyway toll.
Second, the restaurant itself is very well appointed, if you can ignore the splashy, 6-foot tall portrait of the rather unaesthetic mug of Mr. Binion on the restaurant wall. But, presuming you get your chair faced out over the lake, the rest of the room is very pleasant, in a clubby sort of way.
OK, now for the flaws. They are significant; be forewarned. First flaw, the sides, the desserts ... basically anything other than the protein course ... will be mediocre or worse. And oriented toward quantity over quality. Case in point, this Saturday night, I had a rather delicious piece of broiled salmon, perfectly moist inside and crisp outside, but the "wild rice" side dish consisted of a half washtub of brown rice with a small handful of actual wild rice tossed in for color. I expected (perhaps foolishly) a small pile of actual wild rice, and nothing but wild rice, on my plate; but Binion's panders to the hungry, uneducated palate. And so, a bunch of competently cooked brown rice that would provide enough starch for a triathlon attempt. Ah, well.
Second complaint, the "educational" service. OK, given the setting I guess they may get a few unsophisticated diners, but they provide play-by-play commentary on every aspect of the restaurant dining experience in a way that borders on patronizing ("You will be served by Phillipe, who will take your food orders and bring you your food.") A minor annoyance, but still.
Third, they have a very decent wine list, but nobody there really understands or has anything to do with the selections. Somebody at Harrah's corporate set them up with a wine list that (deservedly) has won a Wine Spectator award or two. In particular, for many of the higher end wines, they offer multiple vintages, at varying price points that reflect, more or less, the quality of those vintages (e.g., they have five or six different years of Opus One, with a $50 plus range in prices). That's pretty cool, but then they make mistakes like putting a Viader Cab in the Pinot Noir section, such that I foolishly drop $160 on what I thought must be a new experiment in Pinot by Viader ... but is really just a typo (not that the wine wasn't great, but they didn't realize they were serving me a Cab, until I tried it and told them as much.) Considering that 2001 bottle retails for $100, I suppose I should just shut up about it.
Fourth, don't even think about the appetizers and desserts. $12 gets you a shrimp cocktail including five mealy, rubbery shrimp and flavorless cocktail sauce; $7.00 or so gets you a "creme brulee" consisting of vanilla Jello pudding covered in burnt sugar. It helps when you are getting comped on this stuff (which we were), but still. Not exciting and not the highlight of the evening (that was Mrs. JiLS's $500 pull on a nickel slot).
So, anyway, go for the $5.00 call Manhattans and the very good to excellent entrees, as well as the convenience to the very excellent Horseshoe casino (it really is a nice establishment), but don't have any high hopes for a great dining experience.
JiLS