(Maxwell) St. of Broken Dreams

(Maxwell) St. of Broken Dreams

Went to the Maxwell St. Market today with some folks from the Toronto Star who were eager to try some regional Mexican food. After boasting with barely concealed civic pride about the excellent eating options available at the market, I was stunned and abashed to find that almost none of my favorite places were there: Oaxaca Tamal, Ricos Huaraches, and Green House were nowhere to be seen. The Torontonions were eager to sample eye-ball taco (!!) – the place wasn't there.

Rubi’s and Manolo’s were in business, but no longer together (not a big deal, but that’s an indication of how disoriented the market seems to those of us who got used to finding food stalls in more or less the same locations week after week).

My recommendation: don’t even bother with this market until the construction is over and the market either reestablishes itself or moves to “permanent” digs. As it is, with perhaps only one-third of the usual food places there – and most of my favorites gone -- it just ain’t worth my time.

This was the first day, ever, that I’ve come home hungry from the Maxwell St. Market.

David “This is not a pain I will soon forget” Hammond

Hammond wrote:My recommendation: don’t even bother with this market until the construction is over and the market either reestablishes itself or moves to “permanent” digs. As it is, with perhaps only one-third of the usual food places there – and most of my favorites gone -- it just ain’t worth my time.

I recall when Maxwell St. moved to Canal St, there were long time vendors who never made the move. This is not my personal experience, this information comes from people who have a deeper experience than myself. The old timers departing in protest allowed new entities to take hold who might have waited a lot longer for an opportunity. While you may not have seen your established favorites present, did you identify a trend of newbies?

While I understand the market may be a waste of time, if we don't patronize and it shrinks further then it becomes the self-fulfilling prophecy and one the city might latch onto: Maxwell St. is dead.

Don't take this personally, I'm really just thinking out loud. To put this in proper context, I haven't been down there in a long time.

Regards,

Cathy2 wrote:While you may not have seen your established favorites present, did you identify a trend of newbies?

While I understand the market may be a waste of time, if we don't patronize and it shrinks further then it becomes the self-fulfilling prophecy and one the city might latch onto: Maxwell St. is dead.

Don't take this personally, I'm really just thinking out loud. To put this in proper context, I haven't been down there in a long time.

Regards,

No, C2, I did not see any new ones. I actually think the number of eating places is shrinking (or at least smaller in number than the last time I went). Still, the market was fairly crowded -- perhaps the food is not as important to the general population as it is to us.

Of course, maybe it was just a fluke phenomenon today, but I'm not motivated to return. I'll give it some time; maybe, as I hope, things will sort out when construction is complete and/or the market is moved.

Don't get me wrong, the Maxwell Street Market is one of my favorite places in the city, but if the vendors that make it so special are leaving, my motivation to go is radically reduced.

Hammond

Don't get me wrong, the Maxwell Street Market is one of my favorite places in the city, but if the vendors that make it so special are leaving, my motivation to go is radically reduced.

I understand.

Regards,

Cathy2 wrote:While I understand the market may be a waste of time, if we don't patronize and it shrinks further then it becomes the self-fulfilling prophecy and one the city might latch onto: Maxwell St. is dead.

Don't take this personally, I'm really just thinking out loud. To put this in proper context, I haven't been down there in a long time.

Regards,

I haven't been for a long time, either (mainly because I'm typically working on a Sunday morning), but it's clear the City is pretty happy about squeezing the life out of Maxwell St. market, by whatever means. Perhaps just one more example of the Mayor's disdain for "chaos" (I wouldn't call him a control freak ). Although there are a couple of valid, real problems with the market. First, a LOT of the goods being sold there fall into the category of "fell off a truck." This is just conjecture, of course, but I think you just don't find unopened packages of deodorant that retails for $5.98 being sold at 2 for a dollar and stocked by the gross. (Yes, I bought a half dozen my last visit.) Second, there's not a whole lot of sales tax being collected. So, I'm torn between my love for the fun and food and carnivale-like festivities on the one hand, and my abiding respect for the rule of law on the other (a result of my law school brainwashing, no doubt.) The City probably could've called it quits for the whole affair with one or two strategic raids, some prosecutions, etc. (like the heavy-handed way they have treated street food vendors elsewhere). Instead, the City has created a ghetto -- and that ghetto has been squeezed and squeezed into tighter, less livable quarters over the years, like a belt tightened one notch at a time. I am sure the City would prefer the market to just die out, rather than face the PR shit-storm that would result from summarily shutting it down.

JimInLoganSquare wrote:I am sure the City would prefer the market to just die out, rather than face the PR shit-storm that would result from summarily shutting it down.

You may very well be right, but there seem to be some reasons why the city would not want the Maxwell Street Market shut down. It is, as far as I can tell, policed by private security, and thus minimum drain on regular police, and it brings people downtown on Sunday morning, which would seem to be a good thing.

Is there any reason why sales tax could not be "rolled into" the price of an item? You're quite right that sales tax is not added onto the price of menu items (I've never seen it happen), but it could be figured in. As for gimcracks and curios sold by guys on the street, you're right, they are probably not kicking into the tax base, just as most yard sales do not. Maybe the city sees that as a problem or, at least, a violation.

I guess what I'm saying is: I've not been aware of any animosity toward the market by the city. Except for the fact that they decimate it at will to expand UIC, I've always felt that the city was willing to let the market live as more a good thing than a bad.

Hammond

David Hammond wrote:Went to the Maxwell St. Market today ... I was stunned and abashed to find that almost none of my favorite places were there: Oaxaca Tamal, Ricos Huaraches, and Green House were nowhere to be seen

DH -
The wife and I went there today looking for Ricos Huaraches but couldn't find it either. However we did stumble unto Green House. It was about a 10 minute walk south of Roosevelt on the strip. They probably don't get the same spot every time, though.

I think the best taco vendors out there are thoss that make their own tortillas. I know it sounds strange but I almost enjoy watching them make the food just as much as eating it... well... maybe not as much.

~GS

the churros truck has also been missing 2 weekends in a row... there are still , however, plenty of stolen bikes north of roosevelt...

TonyC wrote:the churros truck has also been missing 2 weekends in a row... there are still , however, plenty of stolen bikes north of roosevelt...

Actually, I did find and stop at the churros truck yesterday.

I think one thing that is throwing us off is that the market is even more mercurial than usual (for instance, I missed Green House because it was in a very unfamiliar location). Of course, the changeability of this market is one of the things that makes it interesting.

Hammond

David Hammond wrote:

TonyC wrote:the churros truck has also been missing 2 weekends in a row... there are still , however, plenty of stolen bikes north of roosevelt...

Actually, I did find and stop at the churros truck yesterday.

I think one thing that is throwing us off is that the market is even more mercurial than usual (for instance, I missed Green House because it was in a very unfamiliar location). Of course, the changeability of this market is one of the things that makes it interesting.

Hammond

I'm surprised about Green House. After all, they usually have two stands at the market.

The last time I went, earlier in the summer, there was no shortage of food, so I'm not sure if your visit is the outlier (or mine was).

There was a lot more vendors on the far north end of the market, near/on Taylor. Rubi's and Manolo's were not adjacent but like across the way from each other. Their offerings were the same, including the very welcome addition of the al pastor spit.

I plan on going in a couple of weeks with some outta-towners, so hopefully, there will be plenty to eat.

Vital Information wrote:The last time I went, earlier in the summer, there was no shortage of food, so I'm not sure if your visit is the outlier (or mine was).

Perhaps the incredible heat of the weekend before dissuaded some vendors from making the effort to set up this past weekend, even though the weather yesterday well just about perfect. I can only imagine how hot it must get over the comals when it's pushing 100 outdoors.

Hammond

TonyC wrote:the churros truck has also been missing 2 weekends in a row... there are still , however, plenty of stolen bikes north of roosevelt...

Hmm if anyone sees a purple Trek 8900 mountian bike buy it and send me an email.... had a meth head kick in my door last week

Yesterday was one of the first Sundays in a while that I've skipped the market, so I can't speak for the conditions. But as a regular, I haven't noticed the lack of food vendors in past weekends this summer. How long has it been since your last visit? I agree with the assertion that the Canal St. construction has GREATLY affected--and dislocated--many of the vendors. Our personal favorite, Lencho's, moved from the most convenient location for us--first stand on the South end under the bridge--to a spot just northwest of the churro truck (close to Walgreens...if you hit Bossman's Bargain Pit going north, take a left in the break and you'll run into Lencho's...just a bit further down is the churro truck).

So maybe it'll take another visit or three to re-familiarize yourself with the current locations? Or maybe yesterday really was an anomaly. Either way. Come back. Sooner, rather than later.

Avoiding the market until the construction/move is complete isn't the way to go if you want to keep Maxwell St. alive. With the condo/UIC invasion, and the pending explosion of that little strip-o-Canal and the much-awaited Whole Foods opening, it's going to take scrappy, willing market-goers to make sure the city doesn't try to pull some arcane, persnickety b.s. and squeeze the life out of this institution. Seriously, if the city is angling for tax dollars from a bunch of tube sock and taco vendors...we gots bigger problems to address.

I'm happy to photocopy or give out old copies of Maxwell. St. parking permits if anyone on the boards need one. The market needs our love, and attention. The old-timers are dying (Nate Duncan, RIP), the newcomers are getting shoved around, but the spirit is there, tube socks, liberated construction equipment and all. Viva Los Tacos!

Has anyone put together a "short guide" or "highlights tour" for the Maxwell Market?? I have never been and want to check it out, but it sounds so crazy that I'd like something to familiarize myself with it beforehand.

This is the mother of all guides...although much of the info. is dated due to the construction/shakeup this thread is referring to.

http://lthforum.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t= ... ell+street

Not to mention this.

Jonjonjon:

It's not as complicated as some of the threads here make is appear. I went for the first time a few weeks ago and it was great. Just stroll along and stop in some place that looks good. We looked for places that were making fresh tortillas; hard to go wrong with that. Some of the folks here are so well versed in this cuisine that they are looking for the best this or the special that. My other piece of advice: don't eat too much at one stand because you're going to want to try more than one. We stopped at one for tacos with red mole (I'd never heard of a mole taco), fresh fried gorditas at another, capped off with the truck that makes fresh churos (they were almost too hot to eat they were so fresh).

Just walk from one end to the other and have blast.

Jonah

crrush wrote:Avoiding the market until the construction/move is complete isn't the way to go if you want to keep Maxwell St. alive.

If a store, restaurant or market is not offering something I want to buy, I will not patronize that establishment – I don’t care if the establishment is run by good people or bad, if they’re not selling what I want, I’m not going to buy their stuff – and if they are, I will. It’s that simple.

Beneath my Che Guevara t-shirt beats the heart of Adam Smith. I believe in the wisdom of the market. If the Maxwell Street Market wants my business, they need to give me stuff I want. If they don’t have what I want, more power to ‘em, but they’re not going to be powered by my consumer dollars.

Now, having said all that, I must underscore that I have deep and lasting affection for Maxwell St. Market as a great Chicago tradition and as a living, growing and changing commercial/culinary zone.

My sincere hope is that someone will go to the market next Sunday and come back and tell me that Oaxaca Tamal is back in business and that Ricos Huaraches is griddling up banderas. My sense is that construction chaos has turned things around, and I was very disappointed last weekend, but I will, of course, return…and I think it’s quite likely that places absent last weekend will return as well.

But that’s not my point.

My point is that I don’t generally eat at places because I believe these places are run by good folks who deserve my business (e.g., Sol de Mexico) and I don’t avoid places because I believe they’re run by people I may not like too much and who I don’t want to support (e.g., Oberweis Dairy). I eat at restaurants and shop at markets where I can get good food – and if I can’t achieve that goal, then let the invisible hand do its job.

All things being equal (which they never are), I’ll opt to go to the place that I “believe in” – but the fundamental determiner, the basic question I ask when I’m considering where I should spend my daily calories and cash is “Can I get good food there?” If the answer is NO, then I got lots of options in this great country of ours -- and there are many small Mexican restaurants that deserve the business.

David “It’s Economy, Sweetheart” Hammond

PS. Crrush, glad you made it to the market and, apparently, dig it!

David:

Made it to the market...and live it. We're right around the corner, but seem to get stuck going to the same places weekend after weekend, so I think the last time we conversed, I was looking for a seasoned guide to show us what we're missing. Still am.

My 'keep the market alive' comment...well, eh. Chalk it up to sentimental enthusiasm and too much caffeine. I don't expect anyone to eat mediocre food simply out of tradition or a sense of duty to the nice, hardworking people.

But I think there are some Maxwell St. gems--have I flogged Lencho's enough?--still around even if your favorites take the occasional break or disappear. Lencho's may not make their own tortillas, but the clean execution with good ingredients (great skirt steak, chargrilled--not griddled--raw onion, cilantro and homemade salsa) make their ranchero taco a winner, and worth going back for weekend after weekend, rain or freezing temps.

As for your old favorites...I'll look for them the next time I'm back (out of town this Sunday).

Does anyone know when the next big move/change will happen? It looks like construction on Canal will probably last through July, possibly August, but what about the final move of the market to...Taylor? Or wherever they're talking about moving it to.

crrush wrote: so I think the last time we conversed, I was looking for a seasoned guide to show us what we're missing. Still am.

Didn't I volunteer for that job?

Any way, what you're missing is...STILL MISSING!

Hammond

Alright, alright...thought for some reason there was a scheduling problem when I tossed that request out there last time. I'll scout for the MISSING the next time I go and report back, but I want the esteemed Gorilla Gourmet to be there when I feast on an eyeball and cruise-direct the ordering.

crrush wrote:Yesterday was one of the first Sundays in a while that I've skipped the market, so I can't speak for the conditions. But as a regular, I haven't noticed the lack of food vendors in past weekends this summer.

I have to agree. I did miss this Sunday, but have been religiously, past weekends. There has definitely not been a shortage of the regular Mexican stands, and the ones you mentioned were there as far as i remember. Maybe you hit a bad week, or were simply confused by the disorder, which was ample.

On the note of the market moving, I talk regularly with a vendor and the word is that the new place will be much better location, with less corruption. Unfortunately, the word is that a LOT of the Mexican stands had an "in" with the corruption and could pay off easily to reserve spots in the market and the word on the street is there will be less of them at the new market

If this is true, there will likely be a more diverse array of food, but surely we'll loose some of our favorites.

This is all hearsay and who knows what could be true about it all. Either way, I’ve never been let down by the food at the market and will most likely eat there almost every week!

Local blog Chicagoist covered Maxwell St market today. I didn't realize you could buy tires there!

i've been told by an extremely reliable source that jam productions has or is about to take over "producing" the event. next they'll be calling it a venue. scary.

jonjonjon wrote:I didn't realize you could buy tires there!

Sure, if you don't mind buying them in sets of three! (And don't feel compelled to ask where they got them.)

I posted this under Nate's obit/thread, but this seems like a better location for some of the best photos of ye olde Maxwell Street I've seen online. They're by photographer Nathaniel Burkins.

My father died before I was 6 and I don't recall much about him, but I do remember him taking me to Maxwell St. to buy shoes and some clothes, in the early 1950's.

Some years later, I worked at the market (in the early 1960's) a couple of Sunday's each month - selling whatever it was the guy I worked for had "found" the prior week. I think he bought odd lots to resell (as compared to selling stolen merchandise, but I don't really know). One week it was tube socks, the next week transistor radio's, one week shoes, another it was candy. He'd pick me up at my house (I think I was in the 8th grade, and he was the "candy man" supplying a neighborhood mom and pop store I worked at after school during the week) at about 4 a.m. and we'd stop for donuts somewhere and then go and set-up the tables.

Each time the guy would want to set up a table at the market he'd fight with the City's Market Manager, a guy who collected the stall rental fees/tax - and who took money on the side when he sold the best spots. I think everyone paid the guy something extra - or they didn't get any space at all. We'd work until about 3 in the afternoon or until the merchandise was sold, and he'd drop me off back at home. He gave me a percentage of what we sold; I thought I was rich (it wasn’t much money, actually).

I was the "barker" and everything else - and he sat back and "managed" the operation, went for sandwiches and dozed-off. I did that for 2 or 3 years. My grandmother had a fit, because working Maxwell St. meant I didn't go to church on those Sunday’s. But it was quite an education - a great experience.

A large percentage of the people living in my condo building are Jewish, and a handful of them owned businesses at Maxwell St. We sometimes sit around the pool, or the recreation room, and they tell stories about "in the old days." It's great fun to hear the stories.

I visited Maxwell Street today with some outta towners, and it was all there/all good:

>Rubi's/Manolo's - with the al pastor mini spits and home-made masa--unfortunetly this was the first stop, and one friend expected such good tortillas the rest of the day.

>The pupusa place

>The churro's, which did not live up (at all) to San Sebastian

>Two stands worth of Greenhouse stuff

> Oaxacan tamals

>Rico huaraches, where I my Spanish quiite failed me, but the huaraches are still about the best thing to eat.

>The eyeball taco people with some snazzy new signs and eyeballs to try--one did

>My friends with the empandas de rice pudding, also today some kinda plum in syrup and the usual corn.

>The guy who spears the whole tongue in Gorilla Gourmet

>The birria de Aguascaliente guy, who had some good looking emapandas frying away, perhaps to make us long the "Come-on in-Come on in" guys*

>The saran wrap guys with the huitlacoche that I never go to because once RST told me their masa was no good.

>The guys who make the giant gorditas stuffed with receson, that is not talked about enough

> Two birria stands

> Gary's favorite taco guys**

Probably a few others, so at least this week, things were thriving.

Rob

*See here
**Id.

Sunday was the perfect Maxwell Street day--ideal whether, good crowd, and plenty of vendors. I think I even spotted a new one, though I was already too stuffed to sample the goods.

I did, however, sample the rib tips at Smoke Signals BBQ, which I'd never seen before. A guy in a BBQ hutch, with a barrel smoker/grill at Taylor/Halsted. I am by no means an expert in the realm of tips or BBQ, but I liked what I had: the tips had a nice, crisp, slightly charred crust on the outside and chewy, meaty interior--clearly not parboiled/steamed.

The owner said he'd been at the market for a few weeks, but this was the first time I've seen him. Anyone heard of him (Ali Lahiani), or his catering outfit (Smoke Signals BBQ)?

crrush wrote:Sunday was the perfect Maxwell Street day--ideal whether, good crowd, and plenty of vendors. I think I even spotted a new one, though I was already too stuffed to sample the goods.

I did, however, sample the rib tips at Smoke Signals BBQ, which I'd never seen before. A guy in a BBQ hutch, with a barrel smoker/grill at Taylor/Halsted. I am by no means an expert in the realm of tips or BBQ, but I liked what I had: the tips had a nice, crisp, slightly charred crust on the outside and chewy, meaty interior--clearly not parboiled/steamed.

The owner said he'd been at the market for a few weeks, but this was the first time I've seen him. Anyone heard of him (Ali Lahiani), or his catering outfit (Smoke Signals BBQ)?

You know I saw the big black smoker-mobile, but as far as I could tell, the offerings were like burgers, etc. I'm bummed I did not look closer!