Had dinner at Erba last night and thought that, for the most part, it was very good. Service (Courtney) was excellent, prices were reasonable and the food was tasty, mostly well-prepared and seasonally-minded.
The herbed polenta with morels, ramps, cremini mushrooms and thyme was delicious. It was served with a rich brown sauce which didn't overwhelm the featured ingredients. I would have been happier with more morels and fewer cremini but it was tasty. I also thought that the romaine and arugula salad with creamy parmesan dressing and '24-hour' tomatoes was excellent. It had just the right amount of dressing, which went nicely with the neutral romaine and the peppery arugula. Another tasty starter was the goat-cheese gnocchi with green beans, fingerling potatoes and pesto. The pesto was well-executed with no off notes. It was applied judiciously and the gnocchi were delicious, though a bit mushier than perfect. A special, risotto with rock shrimp, corn, spring peas and zucchini was pretty good. It boasted clean, individuated flavors and fresh ingredients but I thought it was a bit bland and could have used some additional seasoning.
We tried a couple of additional pastas, which were brought out with our entrees. We wanted them served as a separate course but I'm not sure we communicated that very well, so I cannot fault the house for it. The tagliatelle bolognese was delicious, with nicely-cooked al dente noodles and a rich, aromatic bolognese sauce. The homemade pappardelle with slow-roasted duck, cremini mushrooms, spinach and marsala sauce was tasty and well-executed.
Entrees were more of a mixed bag. Two of us went for the huge slab of veal milanese, which was terrific. It was crispy, flavorful and juicy inside. It was served with grilled, pencil asparagus, fingerling potatoes and roasted lemon halves. I can't exactly say it was distinctive but it was a solid rendition. Whenever I order this, including this time, I always find myself wishing for some sort of sauce, which I realize is not the convention. The crispy exterior would be nullified by a dousing but a squeeze of the roasted lemons wasn't quite enough, either. Still it was well-executed and at $21, a good value. Pancetta-wrapped sea scallops with creamy cannellini beans, grilled romaine and balsamic glaze was fantastic. The scallops were delicious, tender and cooked perfectly. The pancetta was a great component and the cannellini beans, which were soft but not mushy, brought the dish together nicely.
A couple of other pork entrees proved somewhat problematic. A special entree of roasted pork tenderloin with artichokes and a cake of crispy polenta was very tasty but the pork was a bit dry, which makes sense with tenderloin. Still, it was also a bit pink so I'm not sure what the kitchen could have done to improve this dish because it really wasn't overcooked. Serving it more rare would almost certainly result in a fair amount of returns. I guess the lesson here is avoid tenderloin; one I always follow in my own kitchen. Another pork dish, the double pork chop with roman cherry stuffing, potato cake and skinny green beans was sent back because it was too dry. Here, the dryness could not be blamed on the cut. It was overcooked. Our server agreed and happily took it away. She returned quickly and told us that the kitchen was starting another one for us. But after a fairly long wait (everyone else at the table had finished), the replacement 2x chop had still not been served and we ended up cancelling it.
We split a couple of desserts, neither of which I cared for. The apple crostada with vanilla bean gelato, featured on a recent Chicago Magazine cover, was just too restrained for me. It was dry -- especially the hard-edged pieces of apple -- and not sweet enough for my taste. The crust was virtually flavorless. The caramelized banana tart was only a bit better. The crust and the custard base were tasty but the bananas themselves seemed more scorched than caramelized and the chocolate ganache was bitter overkill, which greatly obscured the sweet banana. I will say that while a couple of people in our party liked the desserts better than I did, we all went to Margie's afterwards and each of us ordered a dessert. I think that says a lot about these particular desserts and probably even more about us!
So, all in all, it was a very good meal but not a great one. It was hardly a disaster but there were some problems. I thought that pricing was right in line with where it should be for this level of cuisine. I believe that I could reliably go back or even recommend it to someone looking for something specifically in the neighborhood. Would I travel a great distance to eat this food again? Probably not, but I do think that Erba offers good value and quality food. We found hits and misses, so with a bit of thoughtful menu navigation, I think a person could do fairly well at Erba, certainly better than at many other places.
=R=
Last edited by
ronnie_suburban on May 7th, 2007, 9:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada
Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS
There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM
That don't impress me much --Shania Twain