Had a late brunch with Giovanni at Lula yesterday, and was very favorably impressed with the food.
I had been to Lula once years ago in the early 'let's cook some food to serve with the coffee' phase, back when they'd only been written up in New City maybe once. The kitchen impressed me very little at the time, nothing cleverer in concept or more adept in execution that I could make any morning at my house, and ever since then I wondered if they'd improved enough to justify all the fuss. I can't say on one meal that all the fuss is called for, but it was tasty. I had poached eggs over a cheesy polenta with a mushroom ragout. There was supposed to be 'hazelnut broth' with the mushrooms... I'm still trying to figure out how you'd make broth out of a hazelnut. Maybe hazelnuts steeped in mushroom broth? Hazelnut oil added to mushroom broth at the last minute? Anyway, it tasted like mushroom broth and gave a nice additional concentration of flavor to the mushrooms. I liked the texture of the poached egg with the polenta; comfort food for adult tastes. Giovanni had the short rib/root vegetable hash with eggs which he liked a lot; I enjoyed my taste of it. The meat was shredded and mixed with, um, beets, potatoes, rutabaga? Whatever roots they dug up were good, and while I was initially skeptical about the idea, the concentrated savory flavor of the meat and the good texture and flavor of the sauteed root veggies worked well, especially with egg dripping into it. Liked his dish better than mine, in fact, but I'm too much of a lady

to eat his lunch.
So, buffalo gal, if a storefront on Logan Square with good service and food that's clever, well made, and a little different appeals to you and your gal pal, Lula may be your place. If you want something in the friendly diner pattern, I'll be another one to send you over to Edgebrook Diner. If it's a sunny day, you can go for a walk on the bike path in the forest preserve afterwards and have a wonderful day playing hooky.
Giovanna
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"Enjoy every sandwich."
-Warren Zevon