I imagine I have done this sentimental reverie bit about my old Argyle St. favorite a time or two too many, but we happened to get back for the first time in almost a year and I had to report.
Brief background: Nha Trang was the storefront just west of Benny's Grill until they moved a couple of years ago. We had become quite friendly with the couple who owned it and were thrilled to re-discover them (courtesy of someone who responded to a query I posted on the old board). Unfortunately, they relocated to 3711 W. Belmont, which is beyond the Pale for carless mopes such as we.
However, my son's best friend's mother has a car and loves excursions - especially where there's food at the other end, so we packed up the 2 boys and headed west this Sunday.
The new storefront is bright, neat and clean, where the Argyle space was always a bit sad and dingy. Three plum colored walls and one mango colored for contrast. Each table has its own lazy susan with compartments for cutlery, chopsticks, napkins, condiments (sriracha sauce, fish sauce, soy sauce).
We were greeted with smiles and hugs and a warm welcome for our friends. Mr. N.T. managed "Long time, no see." Perhaps the only thing he ever says that I have been able to understand. His wife, Lin, does most of the talking and is not much more intelligible in English, but absolutely indefatigable - so we always just keep banging away at the syllables until we get a breakthrough.
The food: Lin does all the cooking, and sometimes front of house as well, if Mr. N.T. is out on an errand. Somehow, while her food was always my idea of perfect neighborhood comfort food, it hit new heights on Sun. The eggroll were tightly wrapped, perfectly crisp, nearly greaseless and filled with nicely seasoned meat and thin glass noodles. (I must say that the regular dipping sauce with the carrot shreds seemed a bit watery this time, whether by mistake, or in deference to the tastes of her new neighborhood, I cannot say.)
They are not Pho specialists - in fact I cannot say whether the soups that the 2 moms ordered even classify as pho, but they were scrumptious. One was a chicken base with thin egg noodles, dumplings, shrimp and (alas) fake crab. Served with the regular garnish of sprouts, mint. lime wedges, cilantro. All utterly fresh and crisp and the herbs bright green. We also had a banh xeo and while it looked like the typical version in shape and color it was insanely stuffed with sprouts, onion and meltingly moist barbecued (red) pork slices.
Our friend ordered a beef soup w/ med. rare beef. A very rich, balanced broth (without the trad. pho notes of cinnamon, et al., but very deeply beefy). These had a different noodle, but I've forgotten which.
Then came tofu and vegetables in a nice vietnamese curry. More rustic than Indian curry's but very lively. And lemon-pepper pork. I just love this treatment -- which they do to any meat, chicken or shrimp. It's got a bit of heat, lemon tang, and it just perks up my mouth every time. In addition, the pork pieces seem to have been nearly deep fried (as opposed to woked) they were so crisp outside, moist and flavorfull inside.
Finally there was one of several versions of catfish in a clay pot. I had thought I ordered the very gingery version, but instead ended up with a far funkier, soupier dish. The fish sauce intensity of the liquid was a bit much for me, but diluted over rice was quite good. The pieces of catfish were all plump, meaty, boneless and cooked just right.
They used to be BYO but how offer either Bud or Heineken.
They are also Cash Only as a result of being burned terribly by credit card fraud, a tale that Lin relayed with much animation and real emotional pain.
They claim to be very happy in the new spot, though we were there from 6-7:30 and were alone in the room the entire time.
Despite my personal sentimental investment in them, I would say that if one lives near Argyle, Nha Trang is not a "destination." But for anyone who lives a bit west and south of Uptown, I'd say check them out.
I can't guarantee that we weren't getting special treatment. (We also came away with an invitation to their daughter's wedding reception in Sept.) But they've never been less then good.
Nha Trang
3711 W. Belmont
(Very near a blue line stop, but I forget which)
"Strange how potent cheap music is."