Pat Bruno's Pizza Bets

Centerstage recently sat down with Pat Bruno to talk about five of his favorite Pizza Joints....

Bruno Pizza

Some of his choices like Spacca Napoli make sense, but he lauds Giordano's? In my world Malnati's is easily better, Gino's even, Pizano's probably the best, and while not traditional, where the hell is Pequod's or Burts? Though of course these things are always debateable, does anyone really believe Giordano's is even in the top five? I wonder if I'm missing something...is there a particular location that is consistently great?

In the spirit of full disclosure, I do occasional freelance work for Centerstage, but this is in no way a promotion of their content, just a genuine pizza debate question.

If you take a look at it, he listed a highlight of five different pizza styles.

What would you rank higher for stuffed pizza?

Edwardo's? Years ago I'd have said yes, but they've fallen way downhill. Their stuffed pizza is about half the height it used to be, less cheese, less spinach on their signature pie.

Nancy's? Perhaps, although there's something about the flavor of their sauce I've never liked.

Carmen's? It's been years since I've tried them.

Who else?

Good point, JoelF. Putting Lou's or Pizano's above Giordano's in that category wouldn't make sense since they don't do a stuffed pie.

Edwardo's in Printers Row is probably better in the stuffed department in my opinion than many Giordano's. I still regard Gino's stuffed as better.

MJN wrote: I still regard Gino's stuffed as better.

I was not aware that Gino's made a stuffed pizza.

Within the realm of stuffed, Giordano's certainly wins. But, like many others, I'm not as big a fan as I am of deep dish, or even "Starback-style"...

gleam wrote:Within the realm of stuffed, Giordano's certainly wins. But, like many others, I'm not as big a fan as I am of deep dish, or even "Starback-style"...

I know people use "pan" and "deep-dish" interchangeably, but in my mind they are different, although they are both made in a pan. I think of deep-dish as being more like a pie, with a floury crust and high walls (like an apple pie), a la Uno. Whereas, I think of pan as having a crunchier texture and a flatter shape. Burt's menus always called his style "pizza in a pan", which I think is meant to differentiate it from just "pan pizza".

d4v3 wrote:I know people use "pan" and "deep-dish" interchangeably

They are wrong.

d4v3 wrote:I think of deep-dish as being more like a pie, with a floury crust and high walls (like an apple pie), a la Uno. Whereas, I think of pan as having a crunchier texture and a flatter shape. Burt's menus always called his style "pizza in a pan", which I think is meant to differentiate it from just "pan pizza".

This is pretty close to my definition, although I think of "pan pizza," as having a thicker crust, like Burt's, as compared to deep-dish or stuffed (which is deep-dish with a lid).

Sigh, one day I'd like to get the definitive answers on "Chicago-sty;e" pizza types.

Thin - cracker crust (Barnaby's, Vito & Nick's), butter crust (HRI), New York style (Cafe Luiggi), Neapolitan (Spacca Napoli), traditional (Aurelio's, Roasti's)

Pan - Connie's, Pequod's, Burt's

Deep Dish/Stuffed - I gotta believe that stuffed is a subset of the overall deep dish category.

Thoughts, definitions, breakdowns?

Call it a subset or not, stuffed has a layer of dough on top of the cheese as well as below. A deep dish pizza does not. That's the main distinction.

Best,
Michael

RSMBob, I think it can be fairly clear and simple:

Pan is thick bready crust (like focaccia), thin layer of toppings. Example: Pequod's. Another: Pizza Hut.

Deep dish is thin crust, thick layer of toppings, in Chicago often cheese topped with crushed tomatoes. Examples: the whole Uno/Malnati's school.

(Burt's is somewhere in between in my book, incidentally. Oh well.)

Stuffed has two layers of dough, thus something to stuff. Examples: Giordano's, Art of Pizza.

No guarantee people won't mix up the terms, but that seems pretty straight and clear.

I call 'em all subsets of PIZZA, which I split into two main groups: thick or thin. I like mine thin, so whether they are deep-dish, pan-style or stuffed, they are just too thick for me, so I just don't prefer them. If a single slice puts me in a food coma and/or builds my biceps, it's too thick for me. I like 'em light, thin and kinda crispy. The two subsets of pizza can be easily distinguished by the pans that they are cooked in/on. Thick pizzas usually cook in a pan with taller sides (like a pie pan or cheesecake/spring pan), thin pizzas are cooked on a flat pan (like a cookie sheet) with perhaps a 1/2" edge or a rolled side to it. Obviously there will be exceptions to the rule by chefs who don't realize what the rules are.

I call them all subsets of food.

Boy Mike, talk about pigeonholing!

Really, it's all a subset of organic molecules.

Actually, one predictor of bad thin crust pizza is the use of a pan in the cooking process.

JoelF wrote:If you take a look at it, he listed a highlight of five different pizza styles.

What would you rank higher for stuffed pizza?

Edwardo's? Years ago I'd have said yes, but they've fallen way downhill. Their stuffed pizza is about half the height it used to be, less cheese, less spinach on their signature pie.

Nancy's? Perhaps, although there's something about the flavor of their sauce I've never liked.

Carmen's? It's been years since I've tried them.

Who else?

I'd recomend the Art of Pizza on Ashland (about 3000 North). Their sauce is great. The only thing (and it's personal preference) is that their crust is truly a yeast creation as it has a somewhat bready texture instead of the pie crust feel that Giordano's/Edwardo's have. Anyway it's a great pizza (and the Tribune a year/two ago rated it best in Chicago, if that means anythig.

JoelF wrote:What would you rank higher for stuffed pizza?

hpcarter wrote:I'd recomend the Art of Pizza on Ashland (about 3000 North). Their sauce is great. The only thing (and it's personal preference) is that their crust is truly a yeast creation as it has a somewhat bready texture instead of the pie crust feel that Giordano's/Edwardo's have.

Bready stuffed pizza? Like a big calzone?