After a brief discussion about my general disappointment with Italian food in Chicago in
this thread, I was reminded of recent discussion about Riccardo by Mike G. Cookie and I were delighted to join Mr. G for dinner recently with very high hopes.
Overall, I was pleased. Riccardo prepares high quality ingredients with a level of restraint and respect that reflects maturity and good taste.
Antipasti
Burrata and Culatello
This was my first taste of culatello and I'm not sure how well I could distinguish it from prosciutto aside from it's texture. It was silky and much softer than a prosciutto and went nicely with the creamy burrata (you didn't have to tear through the meat, it was easy to enjoy both together). The aggressively fruity olive oil topping the cheese really made the whole plate shine.
Grilled cotechino with Green Lentils
A beautiful plate of sausage that had a depth of flavors and texture.
Primi
Orecchiette with Wild Boar Sausage, Rapini, and Sun-Dried Tomatoes
The weakest of the pasta dishes, if only for a simple lack of seasoning. It was nicely composed, but the pasta was undersalted.
Penne "Strascicate" (beef, sausage, & chicken liver ragu with pecorino cheese)
The strongest of the pasta dishes. The chicken liver was not underused, and lent a lot of richness and flavor to this fantastic ragu.
Not pictured:
Veal Ravioli "Massaia" (in a lightly creamy meat sauce with porcini mushrooms)
Another nice sauce that highlighted delicate, flavorful ravioli.
Secondo
Prawns and Scallops with lentils and lobster bisque sauce
A very nice plate of seafood that reflects the chefs respect for his top-quality ingredients.
The only two oddities I found about Riccardo were the limited number of wines by the glass (most of which didn't interest me), and the breadth of the menu. Mike G commented that he expected to see a much smaller menu, and I agreed. I find a menu with eight or ten options to be a much better omen than one that has nearly 20 pasta options alone. Nevertheless, the execution was very good and I'm looking forward to tasting more.
My reaction upon leaving Riccardo was that now I finally have a place to recommend to friends searching for an Italian restaurant in Chicago. The ingredients are high quality, the dishes are as close to authentic as I've seen here, and the cooking and preparations show both patience and restraint.
Best,
Michael
PS
ronnie_suburban wrote:I've never been but I've heard good things before about Riccardo. A friend tells me they make their own pasta, too. Can anyone confirm?
I forgot to ask about the provenance of the pastas, but in reflection I would say that the orecchiette and ravioli were definitely made in-house. The penne, I don't think so.