Fiorentino's Cucina Italiana

Somebody mentioned this the other day, a place which I've noticed in my 'hood for some weeks now but which hasn't been reviewed by anyone here (though Hammond did it for some wood-fiber-based publication, damn him). So here goes.

As Tem noted this is a cursed location, a place I think called Pronto (that was decent but not quite really good) was here for a while, then a place oddly called What a Life! of which I only know that it was utterly slammed in the Reader, and now it's Fiorentino's, a comfy neighborhood Italian(-American) place circa 1990. That sounds like a dig but in fact Fiorentino's serves exactly what the area has been lacking, which is something not as demanding of the diner in its commitment to authenticity as Merlo (which is quite close by) or Spacca Napoli (not far), yet not heavy old school Ital-American (like La Gondola across the street offers) either. Da Nicola on Lincoln used to serve that niche, then nobody did for a while, and Fiorentino's entirely likable modern renditions of classics like gnocchi, fettucine alfredo and veal piccata-- which happens to be exactly what we ordered that night-- were just fine and made everyone, even the kids, perfectly happy.

It appears that we aren't the only ones, either, since the restaurant was quite busy on Friday night. Hammond mentions the friendliness of the owner and staff in his review and although they may have been slightly harried by the crowds and new-restaurant wrinkles, the friendliness was genuine, with the owner (who is exactly the woman Central Casting would have sent over to play the part, a stylish 40s-ish lady with that welcoming Italian materfamilias thing) coming over to our table and engaging the kids a couple of times.

I'll be back.

Fiorentino's Cucina Italiana
2901 N. Ashland Ave.
773-244-3026

Do they have a full bar? (If memory serves it was a while before Prego had one, but memory is a poor waitress these days, one whose service sucks.)

That's right, it was Prego, not Pronto. They have a small bar at the back, but I didn't see what they were mixing up there, if anything.

Good. I've been looking for a replacement for Stefani's for some time. This looks like it might be it, particularly with the large patio/garden in the summer.

$2 get you $15 - http://www.twobuckduck.com/Thursday.html

$2 gets you $15 - http://www.twobuckduck.com/Wednesday.html

That spot was the 2nd location of Jim Guth's Chicago Caterers back in the 80's. After it was sold off to Colonial Greenberry Catering occupied it for a while. Then it went was turned into a series of short lived restaurants. This is about its longest stay as one place.