Before I launch into my essay on burger-ation, did someone miss the fact that BK commercials are supposed to be upsetting? Weird images, inappropriate music, it is all part of it. Admirable in its own way.
I have tried to avoid this thread since I know I do not belong here - I enjoy hamburgers more than pizza, but feel that even the most humble sausage offers so much more than a burger. I could go on about that, but I will not.
Having said that, what makes a place a great burger town? What makes a great burger, even? There is some discussion that a great burger town is defined as a place where every corner fast food joint offers a cheap, tasty burger, but what is a tasty burger? And how many such places does a town need to be a great burger town?
There are passing comments that the problem, if there is one, is that so few places offer fresh hamburger, or that so few places broil their burgers, or....????
So let me deconstruct, with minimal bias since there is no sentimental, childhood ur-burger whose vision I cling to, no dimly remembered burger grail I am chasing. Sure, there are some burgers I like, but they are not one style or type - I like In-N-Out, Portillo's, Big Babies, among others. But it is very, very rare that I go looking for any of these.
A great burger is about, like all things food, ingredients, technique and taste. In theory, of course, even if the technique and ingredients are inferior, it can all come together to provide wonderful taste and an exquisite experience - unlikely, but not unheard of.
The ingredients start with a good beef patty with recognizable and pleasant beefy taste. It should have the right amount of fat to deliver a tender result and convey that beefy taste, but not so much that it comes out unpleasantly greasy (technique plays here, too, more on that below). In my experience, it is not so critical that the patty be fresh or frozen - In-N-Out makes a fine burger from a fresh patty, while Portillo's does the same with a frozen one. If I am correct, Wendy's makes a lousy burger from a fresh patty, while Mickey D's achieves the same with a frozen one.
The next most important ingredient is the bun. It should be a pleasant piece of bread, serving both the functional purpose of holding the darned thing together, as well as being the yang to the greasy, fatty, yin of most of the rest of the burger components - some good, sturdy starch to balance it all out. Most fast food burgers offer lousy bread, apparently intended to serve the structural purpose only. Bland bread, ever so slightly sweet, no recognizable yeast flavor or textural component. Wonder bread in a circle.
The nadir for most burgers is the tomato, followed closely by the chunk or strips of iceberg lettuce. These are things you would discard in almost any other circumstance. They add moisture, a touch of texture, and some bulk. No good flavor, if any flavor at all.
The pickles add flavor, a touch of vinegary tang to complement the salty greasiness of the rest of the burger. Usually not the best pickles, but in more than a few burgers the pickles are the only piece I would care to eat on its own.
Ketchup is most often sweet and simple. Mayo is the worst quality, fatty and awful (have I said that I think mayonaise is a curse on the palates of the world? I should have. There is such a thing as good mayo, and a proper place to use it, but both are terribly rare). Mustard, if used, is the simple, tart, salad version.
Cheese, like the bun, can add so much, but usually does not. Rather than real cheese with flavor, we get bland American cheese, melted on to add fat (!) and more importantly mouth-feel, but no flavor.
Technique comes into play in the cooking of the burger and assembly. The burger should be browned of course, and I like a touch of crispiness. Most lousy burgers fail on this and the quality of the beef. They start with tasteless beef, cook it badly, and end up with grey, denatured, protein. Proper cooking can enhance the patty - lower fat works better on a griddled, maybe even with some oil added - higher fat content, and thicker burgers, should be broiled or grilled (charcoal not countertop).
Assembly needs to balance all the ingredients to deliver a balanced flavor and a structurally functional burger.
Taste is, of course, subjective. Some like the slippery patty melt, simple, greasy, higlighting fat, salt and browing of all the components, bread, onions, cheese. Others like the In-N-Out style, a central core of crispy burger, surrounded by a salad of fresh ingredients. To me, it makes no difference - there is no one style I prefer. All I look for is a well-prepard burger, though I do want browned meat, ideally with that crispiness.
So, is it a good burger town if it offers a range of styles, done well? Or one style, generally pretty decent, widely available? What difference does it make? None, I think, though I know the original question has stimulated some interesting discussion.
Here is what I would like to know.
What makes a really good burger for you? And what place or places deliver that best?
I like burgers okay at Johnny's in Lisle (which is similar in style to), Portillo's, In-N-Out. I want to like the burgers at some of the fancier places more than I really do like them. Country House for example. Usually the beef just is not as good as they appear to think it is and the whole thing is underseasoned and not as browned as I would like, but I keep trying whenever I find myself there.
I should go on a burger tour, but the hot dog is so much more interesting. Would you eat a hamburger patty on its own? I would not. Would you eat a hot dog, or any sausage really, all by itself. Absolutely. For me that is the point - you can dress up a burger and have something enjoyable, but at its core, it is a pretty boring preparation of a lousy piece of meat, dressed up to compensate for that.
So I can't say whether Chicago is a great burger town, since I do not know what that means. But I think I know a good burger when I see and taste one.
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Feeling (south) loopy