[Warning: This is a very long post, summarizing our evening at David Burke's. It was an unusual night. I was looking forward to a wonderful, quiet evening with my wife and an old tasty piece of dead cow…little did I know that I was unwittingly boarding a beefy rollercoaster.]
I ate at David Burke's about 1.5 years ago and remember it being the best steakhouse experience that I had ever enjoyed. The cocktail was great (leather infused Manhattan), the appetizers were great (Kobe sashimi, Pretzel crab cake), my steak was great (45-day bone-in rib-eye), and the dessert was OK (donut hole thingies).
I don't go out to eat steak very often, but once or twice a year I get a powerful craving for a nice big chunk of cow flesh. Well, the craving had been building for a couple of months and the recent postings on 65+ day dry aged beef at David Burke's had piqued both my curiosity and my cravings.
I didn't want to partake in too extravagant of a birthday dinner this year, so I suggested to my wife that we go to David Burke's. The 45-day rib-eye I last had was spectacular and I was looking forward to trying something that had been aged even further.
We arrive at David Burke's and were quickly seated (we had reservations). The waiter was friendly and attentive. I open up the menu and see that the Manhattan I was craving was no longer on the menu. At that moment, the automatic harnesses had just lowered and strapped us into the rollercoaster for a ride we were not planning to take.
[note: I am paraphrasing and summarizing with all of the quotes below, the tone throughout all interactions was generally friendly, polite, and kind – although the waiter was a little too chummy and slightly glib.]
Me: I remember having the best
Manhattan I've ever had last time I was here, but I don't see it on the menu.
Waiter: When was the last time you were here?
Me: About a year ago.
Waiter: Oh, it's been a while. It seems we are not serving it anymore.
Me: Might there be somebody at the bar that was here over a year ago that might know how to make it?
Waiter: The only guy that would know how to make it is in France. Can I get you something else?
Me: Sure, I'll try the
RELENTLESS (this was vodka, almond liqeour, and sage).
*waiter leaves and comes back in a few minutes*
Waiter: [with
Mojito in hand] We are out of sage. I brought you my favorite drink. It is a mojito. You are going to love it.
Me: I love mojitos, but it is cold and icy outside. I'm not really in the mood for a drink that is on the rocks.
Waiter: Try it, you are going to love it. [he leaves]
OK. I'll try it. If I can't tolerate it, I'll just order something else. It was a GREAT mojito. It had a very lemony tart and minty foam on the top and the whole thing wasn't very sweet at all – which was good in my book. I drank it. I would have been happier with something else though, I just wasn't in the mood for a cold and icy drink.
We order our appetizers and entrees.
Twice baked potato with corn is no longer on the menu. We order the
cesear salad w white anchovies (as extras for the salad, they now offer white anchovies and/or crab croutons – there may have been one more optional thing, I can't remember now). We also ordered
lobster and braised short rib dumplings – sounded good. My wife ordered a classic filet – Medium. I ordered the
65 day bone-in rib-eye – Medium Rare, on the rare side. The waiter said that the
65 day was more like an 80 day, since it had aged longer. I was excited.
The popovers arrived – they were overcooked, but edible. I remember them being like this last time. I saw other overcooked one being sent to other tables. I did see one set go out that looked just right.
The dumplings arrived. They were very tasty. Two of the dumplings were with lobster, two were with mashed/grounded-like short-ribs inside. The meat was wrapped inside what seemed like gyoza dough and were accompanied with unimpressive sauces. They were just the right amount to get our appetites going. I wished all four of them would have been the short-rib. The lobster ones were not very flavorful and were easily overpowered by the sauces. I would order it again if it were just short-rib dumplings.
The caesar salad was the highlight of the evening. Truly revelatory. This has been talked about plenty on the board, so I won't elaborate. The white anchovies were a delicious addition.
[The pacing of the food was excellent.]
Our steaks arrived. They looked beautiful. My wife's was more like Medium Rare, but close to Medium. Neither one of us are complainers nor are we in the habit of sending back food (I think we've only done it once, and there was a bug in it). So, my wife was fine with the temperature of her steak even though it was a somewhat off. Her filet was great. On to my steak: It was beautifully charred on the outside (almost burned in a couple of areas, I was concerned it was going to be overcooked) and when I cut into it, it was cooked to a perfect temperature, perfectly in line with my expectations. The flavor of the beef was incredible. There was plenty of minerality in the flavor, the expected blue-cheesy tang, something that I can only describe as a very potent beef flavor. It was essence of cow -- as if someone took an entire massive cow and condensed all of its meaty flavor into a 6 x 4 x 2 inch slab. I was very impressed and pleased with the flavor – well worth the $60+ price tag. However……this was the TOUGHEST rib-eye I had ever sank my teeth into. I had to WORK to chew into each and every piece I put into my mouth. My knife hand got a workout. My jaw got a workout. There were two chunks of meat that I simply could not break down into a swallowable mush no matter what the level of determination powering my mastication. I thought to myself – was I wrong in thinking that the extra aging was supposed to break down connective tissue, making the meat more tender. This 80+ day rib-eye was tougher than my 45-day rib-eye or any other rib-eye that I have ever had by an order of magnitude. My wife was paying, she hates any type of confrontation, I smiled and continued to eat my steak. It did taste great. However, she did cringe every time I pulled a half-chewed piece of inedible bristly tough tissue from my mouth. The marbling that I am used to seeing in rib-eyes (and love) wasn't there, but I assumed that with the lengthy aging, the fat breaks down.
*waiter returns*
Waiter: Was that the best steak you've ever had?
Me: I have never tasted such a beefy and flavorful piece of meet in my entire life. It tastes great. *pause, said with hesitance.* I'm not complaining, but for my own knowledge, since I've never had such an old piece of meat before, is it normal for beef to become tough as it gets older. I don't remember my 45-day rib-eye being so tough and this was the toughest-ribeye I've ever had.
Waiter: Oh, rib-eye is a tough piece of meat, that is why I usually don't order it. I usually order sirloin when I go out to eat.
Me: I've had plenty of rib-eyes in my short life and I have never had one so tough. I just wanted to know if that is something that starts happening after a steak gets past a certain age.
Waiter: No, it should be tender. Do you have it in the bag?
[At this point, the busboys had already wrapped up my wife's filet and put it in a take-home bag. I didn't finish my steak (it won) and did not ask for it to be wrapped up.]
Me: No, the busboys took it away.
Waiter: I'll be back.
Time passes…I'm wondering what the hell he's doing. My wife is a bit disturbed, because she hates any sort of drama when we go out to eat…understandably. I didn't want to make an issue of this, I just wanted to answer his question truthfully.
The manager comes to the table [I don't know if this was because the waiter told her something or if it was happenstance – I saw her going to other tables.
Manager: How was your evening?
Me: We have had a very nice time, there have only been a couple of minor disappointments.
Manager: Oh, I'm sorry. What happened?
[I proceeded to very kindly and mildly describe to the manager what happened with my drink order and my experience with the steak.]
Manager: [short summary] A mojito is a poor replacement for a Manhattan – I also wouldn't want an icy drink in Winter. Your steak should not have been tough. You must have gotten a bad cut of meat. I apologize. I am not going to charge you for your steak – you shouldn't have to pay for that.
OK. I'm blown away. I never expected to get comped for a $60+ piece of meat. It was edible. I ate most of it. That said, I would never order it again if that is was the correct texture. She let me know that it should have been SUPER TENDER, not how I described. She educated me some more on the steaks that have been aged longer and let me know I got a bum cut. She was incredibly professional and classy. I was very impressed. She came back and told me she knew how to make the Manhattan (at that point I didn't want it.). She also noted that others have asked for it and that they may put it back on the menu. After this transaction, my mild disappointments and annoyances washed away and I only thought about how positive this experience was. I was doubting David Burke's after tonight, but not any more.
The waiter returns…says nothing about the steak issue…and plops the desert menus in front of us. He was much less friendly than he was earlier, but certainly not inappropriate or rude. I tell my wife that he is probably mistakenly thinking that we will not think to tip him on the total bill with the steak included – which we absolutely planned on doing. Or, he's busy and we were reading into it too much.
I order
profiteroles with blueberry & cinnamon ice cream accompanied by blueberry compote and a caramel cashew sauce. It was delicious and I recommend it.
[The waiter returns with the profiteroles AND with a slice of the "prime" cake with a "Happy Birthday" presentation. I express my thanks.]
I don't like birthday attention when we go out to eat (except when it is something subtle, like a message on the menu, like at Trotter's or Moto), so I ask my wife if she had ordered the cake…she said no, but they asked if there was a special occasion when she made the reservation and she said it was my birthday. We were too stuffed to even try the cake. I am not a cake lover and therefore never buy a birthday cake when it's my birthday – I'm just not a big fan.
The night ended positively, I feel that the rollercoaster ride has ended, and that it was a good one, overall. I thanked the waiter very much for his nice service (even though it really wasn't that great – it was prompt and attentive, but a little uncomfortable). I suggest to my wife that we tip slightly over 20% on the total bill + on the price of the steak that was comped. She felt that was appropriate.
The bill arrives and the steak is correctly comped from the bill. We ordered cocktails, wine, appetizers, entrees, dessert, and dessert wine. That said….I was very surprised to see that I was being charged for the MOJITO and that I was being charged for the SLICE OF PRIME. I didn't order either of those items. They were forced on me. The very positive and classy impression that the manager had created during my interaction with her had now completely been undone. The positive feeling was completely undone. The rollercoaster ride wasn't actually over. But, at this point, I was done with ride and wanted to move on. I wasn't going to complain, but I suggested to my wife that we now tip 20% on the total bill, but not including the price of the steak. She disagreed with me, noting that the evening turned out to be much more complicated than she had intended and she didn't want more complications. Well, she was paying, we ended up leaving a 20+% tip on the total bill (including the tax) + adding the comped steak to the ticket.
I have to say….it was an unusual evening filled with ups and downs. Not a disaster by any stretch of the imagination, but definitely unusual. I didn't know how to feel at the end. I still felt very impressed and satisfied that the manager was willing to comp the steak without my asking for it; however, I felt strange about having two items being forced on me and then being charged for them. Weird.
When all is said and done, neither my wife nor I feel any strong desire to return to David Burke's at this time. After my first visit to David Burke's I left thinking that I would visit no other steakhouse besides them when I got the craving for cow flesh. Now, I know I'll go somewhere else next and probably only return to David Burke's on a rare whim at some random time in the future, likely with others, hoping that the "ride" will be closed on that night.