Cheburechnaya--Rego Park Queens

QueensFresser: We ventured out to the no man's land between the Queens neighborhoods of Woodside and Forest Hills called Rego Park in search of New York's Bukharian Jewish community. It was a few storefronts along either side of 63rd Drive right off the Subway stop of the same name. Queens is made up of these little ethnic microcommunities.
BrooklynKibbitzer: I’d like to start by asking you: how did you first discover this neighborhood and what made you choose this particular restaurant?
BrooklynKibbitzer: I remember you saying this was the "best one."
QueensFresser: I read the Times piece and a couple of my foodie friends went out there and they all seemed to agree that this one had the biggest assortment of things and that the food was the best
BrooklynKibbitzer: So had you been there before?
QueensFresser: yes i went once before on a Sunday and it was bustling with people all dressed in their outer borough best
BrooklynKibbitzer: was the menu you had then the same as the one we saw?
QueensFresser: No, the menu had changed. The Times article has obviously forced them to try to make a more outsider friendly menu. There were many more Bukharian names on the menu the first time and far fewer explanations. For instance Plov was now Pilaff
BrooklynKibbitzer: but the food was pretty much the same even though the names were more "Americanized"?
QueensFresser: the food was the same although on the busy Sunday morning it came faster and hotter. It’s the old restaurant paradox that when they are busier, the food and service are better than when it is slower.
BrooklynKibbitzer: Well, let’s talk about that -- first, let's try to list what we ordered.
BrooklynKibbitzer: Here's my list, but add to it if you remember more:
BrooklynKibbitzer: Kindzmarauli wine, which was a Georgian semi-sweet wine
QueensFresser: Yes and actually very pleasant with the food…
QueensFresser : …with a dry finish, as you noted.
BrooklynKibbitzer: Yes, it was sweet in a Manischewitz sort of way, but the sweetness didn't linger and complicate (or corrupt) the food
BrooklynKibbitzer: Then we ordered herring with potatoes
QueensFresser: The potatoes came late and we ate the herring with the blanched onions that were served on the side. The herring was salty and strong, but not overpowering and had a really nice firm consistency form the salt cure
BrooklynKibbitzer: I loved the herring.
QueensFresser: I loved the herring, too.
BrooklynKibbitzer: It was firm, but it wasn't firm like the herring you'd get out of a jar -- it was cured for just enough time
BrooklynKibbitzer: I think that was my favorite dish.
BrooklynKibbitzer: And the chebureki with pumpkin was great, too -- you mentioned you thought the pumpkin might have been cooked in lamb fat?
QueensFresser: Definitely it had a muttony after taste. You also said that the pastry was crisp and not too greasy. It was also pleasingly light for a deep fried app
BrooklynKibbitzer: Right. It was greasy for flavor, but I didn't feel like I needed napkin after napkin to wipe it off my fingers. Speaking of the chebureki, did you dip it in the "salsa"?
QueensFresser: I did, which I liked, but I couldn't identify a particular flavor. It was tomato-y with the same combination of spices that everything seemed to have -- cumin and salt…
BrooklynKibbitzer: …which was odd and gave some of the dishes -- like the manty we had next -- a faintly Latin American flavor.
BrooklynKibbitzer: Manty, you'll remember, were the big, puffy dumplings stuffed with a combination of beef and onions.
BrooklynKibbitzer: Or was it lamb?
QueensFresser: I think it was beef. They looked like oversized Chinese dumplings because of the pleats in the dough. Cumin is a pretty common worldwide spice, but when you taste it just by itself, it definitely invokes Latin America.
BrooklynKibbitzer: Yes, it was a lot like an empanada, but not the same shape. I have to say I didn't expect that flavor. So many of the dishes evoke other Central Asian or North African cuisines -- they had hummus on the menu, for example -- and "manti" in Turkey is a smaller dumpling filled with lamb. It doesn't taste an iota like an empanada and is covered in yogurt. I sort of expected that.
BrooklynKibbitzer: Even so, I was delighted with what it actually was!
QueensFresser: Yes, I really liked those and, in general, you got the sense that you were eating simple food as it would be prepared at home for a special occasion. Definitely not restaurant food, there was not a great deal of embellishment
BrooklynKibbitzer: After the manty, we got into some serious business with the green plov, kebabs, and quail.
BrooklynKibbitzer: What did you think about the plov this time?
QueensFresser: I thought it was quite good, but would have benefited from being warmer. It was loaded with sweetmeats and well-seasoned, though.
BrooklynKibbitzer: I felt like everything -- except the roasted tomatoes and onions we ordered to go with the kebabs -- was a bit lukewarm.
QueensFresser: Yes, definitely. What did you think of the Plov?
BrooklynKibbitzer: I liked it, but I'm not much of a sweetmeat-eater, so it had that sort of gamey, rich flavor to it that can get old fast.
QueensFresser: Ok on to the kebabs…
BrooklynKibbitzer: Kebabs! We ordered two kinds: the specialty of the house (lamb-fat kebabs) and beef skirt steak ones.
QueensFresser: Let’s do the easy one first. The Beef Skirt steak ones were flavorful, moist, and perfectly cooked. But they were exactly what one would expect from a beef kebab.
BrooklynKibbitzer: I actually found the skirt steak to be a little disappointing. Kind of overcooked.
QueensFresser: I thought it was ok, but I can see that
BrooklynKibbitzer: Maybe it's because it wasn't very thick, so it might have been difficult to have that sort of charred outside and pink inside...The steak was best when eaten with one of the roasted onions or tomatoes.
QueensFresser: Also, they just wouldn't do pink inside. It’s just not the style for that part of the world. I think microbial concerns are at the bottom of it. Yes, I thought the tomatoes and onions went very well.
BrooklynKibbitzer: That's interesting -- hadn't thought of it that way. Maybe a leaner meat -- some of the veal or chicken -- would have been better?
QueensFresser: Yeah, when we lived in Africa the meat was cooked to the consistency of an old shoe, also when I have been in India and Trinidad.
BrooklynKibbitzer: Moving on to our next kebab adventure: the lamb fat.
QueensFresser: The lamb fat was surprisingly not nauseating. It had a firm texture, we noted, like pork belly, and was flavored so as not to be overwhelming. It was, however, very rich.
BrooklynKibbitzer: I've confessed before that I'm not much of a lamb fan despite its central role in most of the cuisines I like, so I wasn't expecting much. Yet I'm going to put this out there: lamb fat is the best part of lamb meat you can get. It was rich (like eating a stick of butter), but seasoned and textured like a piece of meat.
BrooklynKibbitzer: I should add that even if it's the best part, it's not like you can eat a lot of it.
QueensFresser: No, it’s definitely a "special occasion" treat.
BrooklynKibbitzer: And I think a two-chunk limit is a good guideline.
QueensFresser: Yes. I think this is definitely a food that does not fit into first world conceptions. It’s such a pure expression of the idea of fat as luxury and excess.
BrooklynKibbitzer: I can see that. I would think of it as something to be set aside for the most treasured dinner guest.
BrooklynKibbitzer: So after that was the quail -- as a quail expert, what did you think?
QueensFresser: I actually thought the quail was a bit overdone, but I thought it was the blandest protein medium and so it allowed you to really taste the spice rub that was being put on everything. This being the cuisine of the spice road, that seemed important. I thought the rub on the kebabs was more balanced than the flavoring for the meat in the Manty. A single spice didn't stick out that much and the overall impression for me was a general savory flavor.
BrooklynKibbitzer: Well-put. I found the spicing to be pleasant, but not particular to a specific flavor. As with the manty, I was surprised that it wasn't MORE identifiable in a general Middle Eastern sort of way. I would have expected more lemon or garlic.
BrooklynKibbitzer: But it was actually a lot like a roast chicken like my (Ashkenazi) mother would make.
QueensFresser: Yes, I think that's right. It was also not particularly Asian.
BrooklynKibbitzer: Right.
QueensFresser: And then there’s the Chak Chak.
BrooklynKibbitzer: For reasons solely consisting of amusement and hilarity, this was one of my favorite things.
BrooklynKibbitzer: It's almost a shame to try and explain what it tasted like.
BrooklynKibbitzer: Indeed, that may be impossible.
QueensFresser: Much more fun to try to describe attacking it with a plastic fork. Perhaps one of the least ergonomic serving methods I have encountered.
BrooklynKibbitzer: I think the joke we made was that they wouldn't give us any real silverware for this because anything less than an ice-pick would have bent in deference.
BrooklynKibbitzer: So to describe -- the Chak Chak was a hard mound of Chinese-like fried noodles covered in honey and sprinkled with pistachios.
BrooklynKibbitzer: I liked the way the waitress arched her eyebrow when we ordered it -- especially after she had just brought us complimentary watermelon slices.
QueensFresser: Yeah, she seemed to be thinking, "ok, you asked for it!"
BrooklynKibbitzer: Okay, overall impression of the place?
QueensFresser: It was a strange atmosphere. Too big and empty and somewhat sorrowful because it was a chilly weeknight. But you definitely had the sense of visiting a place that is really patronized by Bukharian Jews, where outsiders are tolerated, if not exactly welcomed.
BrooklynKibbitzer: I agree. With the Russian version of MTV on all of the TV screens (I think I counted about four of them) and only a couple of other tables occupied by patrons (who seemed part of the Bukharian community), the place seemed vast and not very welcoming.
BrooklynKibbitzer: On the other hand, it was a familiar experience -- dining at a restaurant that represents a very nuanced, very specialized cuisine from another country and being met with a mixture of dubiousness, curiosity, and some vague eye-rolling by the wait-staff.
QueensFresser: That's true. Also it had a similar feel to the old Ratner's and some of the delis in the city.
BrooklynKibbitzer: Totally. And that feels very New York to me. Would I go back? Sure. Would it be a major destination? Not really.
QueensFresser: I agree. Though I would take someone else there; it is a pretty unique experience and a cuisine that is almost unknown here.

For pictures of the kebabs and Chak chak see below

http://www.bridgeandtunnelclub.com/bigm ... chnaya.htm

Welcome. Very nice post, evocative of one of the great, missed, New York-loving contributors to LTH. We could use more dialogue.

PS, it's all about Georgian wines and chak chak over here in the Chi too these days...

LTH Great Neighborhood Restaurant, Chaihanna

Thanks Jeff for the warm welcome! We thought that we should introduce ourselves, since we hope to be more regular contributors to LTH.

The BQE Manifesto


The BQE are two New York foodies.
We know fancy food and admire the Manhattan dining scene, but will never post about either. Instead, we are committed to the fringes, to the immigrant communities and the long-standing, unshakably proud ethnic neighborhoods that give New York its spark.

The BQE is against the Disneyfication of New York.
We support the mom-and-pop establishments, the kinds of restaurants that wow us with their purity of purpose if not always with gourmet innovation. We seek out the scruffy gems and the glimmering ghosts of New York’s past.

The BQE promotes a dialectical approach to the discussion of food.
We celebrate our differences in taste and inclination. Our reviews will always take the form of dialogue to emphasize not only our individual opinions but also the vibrant experience of sharing a meal together.

The BQE has deep ties to Chicago.
We may be New Yorkers now, but we used to be Chicagoans. By contributing our reviews of New York’s cuisine to the LTH Forum, we aim to open up the conversation, expand our community, and shrink the many miles between us.

TheBQE wrote:The BQE has deep ties to Chicago.
We may be New Yorkers now, but we used to be Chicagoans. By contributing our reviews of New York’s cuisine to the LTH Forum, we aim to open up the conversation, expand our community, and shrink the many miles between us.

The BQE will be a welcome addition to the LTH landscape

TheBQE wrote:The BQE promotes a dialectical approach to the discussion of food.
We celebrate our differences in taste and inclination. Our reviews will always take the form of dialogue to emphasize not only our individual opinions but also the vibrant experience of sharing a meal together.

I like the dialectical approach, but would appreciate it if you can find some way to format it a bit. It was kind of hard to read. Just a point of feedback.

I also appreciate that we'll be getting more input from NYC here! Thanks!

I'm really glad you posted this. My dad lives practically next door, and I will be there very briefly in mid-December and am hoping to check out some more Uzbek places. Any other recommendations?

Hi BQE. I'm also a recent transplant from Chicago to Brooklyn, currently living in the culinary wasteland of Midwood. At least I'm close to DiFara Pizza but, in the last couple of months, have even managed to burn myself out on that. Fortunately, I have a car so I can roam the boroughs looking for interesting things to eat. I'm looking forward to reading more about your discoveries and, perhaps, suggesting a few places you might want to try.

Eva Luna wrote:I'm really glad you posted this. My dad lives practically next door, and I will be there very briefly in mid-December and am hoping to check out some more Uzbek places. Any other recommendations?

So glad you enjoyed the post -- and many apologies for our formatting difficulties! Next time we aim to be much more readable. The "Q" in "BQE" is out of the country right now and he may have some great suggestions for other destinations in the neighborhood. In the meantime, this article may help:

http://www.nytimes.com/2006/01/18/dining/18rego.html

You may be surprised by how tiny and unassuming the Bukharian neighborhood really is.

Paul SL wrote:I'm also a recent transplant from Chicago to Brooklyn, currently living in the culinary wasteland of Midwood...I'm looking forward to reading more about your discoveries and, perhaps, suggesting a few places you might want to try.

Great to hear from you and looking forward to having you join the conversation! (Hopefully, Midwood has at least one more knockout food establishment -- it's such a large neighborhood, after all. Let's try to to find it...)

TheBQE wrote:In the meantime, this article may help:

http://www.nytimes.com/2006/01/18/dining/18rego.html

You may be surprised by how tiny and unassuming the Bukharian neighborhood really is.

Eh, I did see that article when it first came out, but have one quibble with it: "ug-sauce" on p. 2 is a mistake. "Uksus" (emphasis on first syllable) is the Russian word for vinegar, which is, I'm sure, what the interviewee was talking about.

As for checking out the neighborhood, I know it well; I'm an NYU alum, and my dad has lived next door in Forest Hills for going on 25 years. I dragged him to a now-closed Bukharan place maybe 5 years ago, but my stepmom refused to come because she thought the food was "weird." This time, however, she is inexplicably willing to give it a try, so I hope it doesn't disappoint her!

Hey, have you been to Salut Kosher Restaurant yet? (http://www.nyc.com/restaurants/salute_k ... eview.aspx) My stepmom has finally agreed to check out Bukharan food, and that's where she wants to go. The reviews look good so far. And hey, you have to give props to a place that apparently offers lamb testicle kebabs: http://nymag.com/listings/restaurant/salute02/menus/main.html

JeffB wrote:Welcome. Very nice post, evocative of one of the great, missed, New York-loving contributors to LTH. We could use more dialogue.

Warm welcomes to you as well, teamBQE . Thanks for posting.

I was wondering if you could give us your take on Nick's Pizzeria in Forest Hills, Queens? Having only been to their offshoot Manhattan location on the Upper East Side and still absolutely loving it, I'm quite curious about the current state of their original operation.

Also, can you fill us in a bit about the grandma pizza situation in that whole area and beyond? I'd really love to hear some specifics about that.

Thanks so much.


Nick's Pizza
108-26 Ascan Ave
Flushing, NY
(718) 263-1126


Nick's Pizza
1814 Second Avenue (at 94th Street)
Manhattan
(212) 987-5700

Eva Luna,

Thank you for your recommendation to check out Salut. We haven't been there yet, but will definitely put it on the list. We'll have to check the kashrut laws, but it's so hard to believe lamb testicles are in and shrimp are out!

Pigmon,

We appreciate your warm welcome! Q has been to Nick's in Forest Hills and thinks it is a great pie. The owner (Nick?) is very opinionated. He says that his product is a perfected New York-style pizza and has no relation to Naples or anywhere else. It is a very good version of typical New York Pizza -- thin, crisp crust, with almost a buttery taste, and a balanced approach to cheese and sauce. It's almost austere, but very tasty and fresh. Although the last time I was there, it was not quite as good as in previous visits. I have not tried the Manhattan branch.

As for grandma pizza, we have our doubts about it as a truly separate category of pizza. As far as we can tell, the term just popped up among foodies in recent years. There is a place, however, in Astoria called Rizzos that has an excellent thin square pie. Also excellent is Artichoke Basile's thin square pie on 14th street between 1st and 2nd in Manhattan. (We know we said we wouldn't mention Manhattan, but it does seem that pizza has no boundaries here.)

We'll post about another food adventure soon. Thanks so much to everyone for your enthusiasm.

TheBQE