Aw, c'mon guys. Honestly, I find some of the comments on this thread overly smug to say the least. We are looking for special treatment. We want our Katy's wall menu translated. We pine to dine with ErikM who organizes meals where the Chef barely thinks about what is on the nominal menu. We go back stage at Honey1 and make sure we order our clams "Evil Ronnie" style. We friend Kelly on Facebook and accept dinners that are not made available for everyone. I mean we are told explicitly what to do in order to get the right type of treatment at Gene and Georgetti's. It is only when it gets to a certain kind of restaurant that people's nose gets out of joint. Let me also say this, the age of the anonymous restaurant critic is fading. Look at Jay Rayner. He's not hiding nor are many of his breathern.
I'm not saying that there are not ethical landmines. It is wrong to extort a restaurant, to dangle a favorable rating for a comped meal as has been alleged in some cases. It is incumbent on the reviewer to demonstrate in some way, through disclosures, though posting history, whatever, that no untold behavior occurred. Still, is that any different from what goes on here a lot. Many of us our friends or at least good acquaintances with many of the people we post about, Mark Mendez, Rob Levitt, Paul Virant, Paul Kahn, as well as various Chinese, Mexican, and BBQ places well loved on this site. The readers of these posts must weed through the growth of bias's.
Speaking from experiences, I can say that the "tasting menu" is often not the night's best offerings. I can see why someone would want to inquire of something better. And to think L20 has no better is not to read some of the earlier posts in this thread (cf Suburban, Ronnie) or have watched the episode of No Reservations. You can take what's given or you can try for that.
We can talk endlessly about the process of getting special treatment. Ironically, for this thread, Steve P's arch nemesis Steven Shaw, has written a book on it getter better treatment. We can work at becoming VIPs by dining out often, spending much and tipping large. We can also review these boards, study the tips and toss around code words ("can I have Gary's chili oil"). The people who dined at L20 the other night offered two things in hope of getting special treatment. For one thing, as suggested upthread, they put out a big credit line. Give us your best, we'll pay for it. Second, they offered up their experiences. They said (or implied at least), we've been here and there. We've met and talked with your contemporaries, your rivals, your hero's. We want to see how you compare. That is an offer and challenge that is not so ridiculous as it is made out here.
The thing is, Steve and Gary and DutchMuse were not so miffed by the lack of special treatment. Their expressed concern, as written in the posts above, was how things got communicated. Yet, what has driven the ire in this thread is not so much the communication but the desire. All I can say, those who want to dine as generic as possible, you can. But if I'm out there schmoozing with the chefs, dining with Plotnicki, or bringing along my secret menu, keep your ire away from me.
Think Yiddish, Dress British - Advice of Evil Ronnie to me.