Goose Island's "Sofie"

I picked up a bottle yesterday from Whole Foods and was very happy with what I got. I've been an on/off Goose Island drinker since my dad first left a six pack unattended in the back of our basement (which doubles as an open air cooler). For a while I wouldn't touch the stuff as my palate wandered to European, South American and Asian beers. And to be frank, I'm still not a big fan of American micro-brews. I don't care if its Three Floyds, Bell, Brooklyn or Arrogant Bastard. If it tastes like sweet cheese funk, I ain't finna drink it (I know, I know, this is the "character" that is missing from imported brews).

Back on track. The bottle of Sofie I picked up has restored my faith in American brews, and especially in Goose Island. The one American brew I never had problems with were the better imitations of Belgian-style beers. Its one thing American brewers do that has always been agreeable to me. What surprised me about Sofie though was that it was so European to my palate. Like genuinely clean, crisp, noble, not overcomplicated. And it demonstrates what I think is a considerable leap in maturation and skill for Goose Island. Who knew ten years ago that the humble Chicago brewer that made its name with Honkers Ale would be putting out a bottle of Saison this sophisticated?

Have you had any of the other Goose Island premium beers? They brew many different beers in Belgian styles. Definitely try the Matilda and the Pere Jacques and see what you think. Both are quite good. Also they brew a limited release beer called Juliet which is a sour style ale. It's pretty different from other beers, but definitely worth trying (though expensive).

I can't really think of what you mean by the funky cheese smell. American micro brews span such a wide variety of styles that lumping them together is really tough. If you can name some beers you like, people on the board can probably recommend lots of great American beers that may work for you.

It's hard for me to articulate, but there seems to be a nearly-universal quality to American micro-brews I have drank that is very off-putting to me.

These beers taste sugary, funky, skunky. I don't find them very drinkable. In other words, they aren't "crisp" or "clean" to my palate. They taste like food - namely fermented or cultured foods. Like cheese. I don't want to eat my beers, I want to drink them.

Beers I like - San Miguel (Philippines), Bohemia (Mexico), Trumer Pils (Austria), Stiegl (Germany), Manabrea (Italy), Czech pilseners, most of Samuel Smith's stuff, and all the good Belgians - (Golden Drak, Delerium Tremens, Duvel, etc.). All eminently drinkable, none tasting like cheese (to me at least).

Regards,

Un-American Habibi

Well I can't place the smell you're talking about. I have some ideas based on what you said.

For starters you seem to like lagers. Try the Prima Pils from Victory or the Flywheel from Metropolitan. Both are pilsener style lagers I like from American brewers.

With the Belgian styles there is a huge array of American options. I'd say start with the offerings from Allagash or Ommegang (available at any store with a decent selection of micros). Maybe do a little reading on the different styles to make sure you know what to expect, but both breweries put out lots of great Belgian style ales.

And if you're willing to experiment with other styles, just ask and there are tons of great options.

I'd also say quibble that Habibi's preference for lagers is quite American, rather than un-American Lagers long ago outstripped ales in terms of volume, especially in this country.

My favorite method of trying lots of new beers is going to Hopleaf or the Map Room with a party of four or five, and making sure everyone orders a different beer. So long as you're comfortable sharing a few sips & germs with these people, you can get some impressive breadth of taste from just one or two rounds.

Also, going to Goose Island itself lets you taste the other beers they don't produce commercially. There's often a belgian-esque beer or two in the bunch, occasionally on cask. And they typically offer Bourbon County Stout year-round, which will at least leave you quite tipsy, if not a total convert to American brews.

I love Goose Island. Go to their brewery on Clybourn and you should be able to find at least a couple beers to suit your tastes.

I started writing a long post at first trying to figure out what it is you're noticing in American microbrews that you can't articulate, especially since I'd describe many of the Belgians you like in the same terms you used -- sugary, funky (though not skunky--skunky is a very particular flavor in beer, and I've never noticed it in any American microbrews--it's a taste I associate with Corona, and often Heineken and even bottled Pilsner Urquell.)

What I believe you are reacting to is the taste of more highly hopped, higher-alcohol (6%+) beers with a lot of body and a decent amount of yeasty funk to them. Now, I think Belgians have quite a lot of yeasty funk (I'd say it's one of their defining characteristics), so I don't know how exactly to fit that into the equation. However, by looking at the other beers you like, you seem to like beers with a subtle hop profile, you prefer European hops, you like 5% ABV or less, with a dry malt profile and light-to-medium body, and you prefer lagers to ales. (Once again, the Belgian beers are pretty much the opposite of this, except for the hops analysis.) The most popular American microbrews tend to be ales (and have a yeastier taste to them, because of the higher fermentation temps), with higher alcohol, hoppier with a more citrus and pine hop profile than English or German beers (which have a more floral or spicy profile), sweeter (to balance the bitterness of the hops) and have more body to them.

So, I would recommend the aforementioned Victory Pils, as well as Anchor Steam (one of America's two indigenous beer styles, the other being Kentucky Common Beer.) I would also give some of the American wheats a chance, too. Though they're ales, they tend to be cleaner and crisper than their European progenitors. I'm not a fan of American wheats for this reason, but Goose Island's 312 is probably the most straightforward of the bunch. Bell's Oberon and Three Floyd's Gumballhead are a little bit sweeter and more fruity, but you may like them. Sierra Nevada's Summerfest is a great straight-ahead lager, too, when the season comes around. Hell, I'd say Samuel Adams Boston Lager is actually one of the best American lagers out there, too.

edit: Looking at the current menu at Goose Island, if you feel the inclination to visit, I think you might like the following: Golden Goose Pilsner, Altbier, and Blonde Ale. From the Belgian-style brews on tap, there's the Matilda and Pere Jacques. For something a little different with a juniper-berry twist to it, the Sahti is worth at least a sip.