Where to Stay for a Food-centric New Orleans Vacation

Hi All-

I will be taking a solo vacation to New Orleans this December. I have never been and no almost nothing about the city and how it is laid-out. But, I know the city is known for grub and music. I love to eat and am a musician, so it is the place for me! My vacation is the one time I get off all year, and I will be exploring these two facets of New Orleans for a week.

I have been sifting through about a dozen NoLa threads I have found with the search function and am slowly building an impressive list of dining options.

However, I am at somewhat of a loss of where I should stay. Price isn't really an issue (hey, go big or go home) but I want to make sure I am located in a place that both has lots of places to eat/listen to music/drink/etc in the neighborhood, as well as fairly easy access to the street cars to get out to some further-flung destinations (I will not have a car).

On top of that, I just want it to be an authentic experience where I stay. Maybe I am being ridiculous, but I hate the sanitized Holiday Inn experience you find these days. I think Stevez summed it up well on his thread about Mexico. There are a lot of hotels that strive to make you feel like you aren't in the city you are actually in. Strange. I want to avoid that at all costs.

Suggestions on hotels for this food traveler where I can have great accessibility, but still get a fabulous, authentic hotel experience?

Also, it seems like the most recent post are 4-5 months old. Any new places open up I should be aware of? Or oldies that have slipped? That, along with any and all suggestions of what to do, jazz and blues venues, and where do go are all greatly appreciated. I have no preconceptions of where this vacation will take me, and I am up for suggestions!


Thanks!

I was in New Orleans just a few weeks back and stayed at the Dauphine Orleans, which I think may fit the bill. I don't believe it's part of a chain or anything like that. The hotel has two building, the main one and the Hermann House (we stayed in the Hermann and would recommend it).

You'll be just a few blocks from some famous restaurants, one block off Bourbon (yet somehow the hotel is very quiet), next door to Bayona (great food), three blocks from the streetcars, and a quick cab ride from any other place you'd probably want to hit.

The one negative is it's on a somewhat residential street so there isn't much cab traffic - you'll either want to call one or walk a couple blocks to a cab stand.

http://www.dauphineorleans.com/

We stayed in a B&B out at the end of the St Charles Street street car line after where it makes it's turn onto Carrolton Ave. and where the Camilla Grill is. It was a little far out but riding the street car back towards the French Quarter only took maybe 25 minutes and you could get off anywhere along the way. That way we were able to get off and have dinner at Pascal's Manale one day and Commander's Palace another as well as ride all the way to the end of the line at Canal Street and then walk around the Quarter. I know there are several small hotels and Inns all along St Charles Street and the street cars run by about every half hour. I would not recommend the B&B we stayed in and I would be surprised if it was still in business but I highly recommend staying somewhere along St Charles Street and getting out in the neighborhoods.

If money is not object, the Windsor Court is the hotel in NOLA:


Windsor Court Hotel
300 Gravier Street New Orleans LA 70130
Toll-Free: (888) 596-0955 Tel: (504) 523-6000

Location
Windsor Court is conveniently located in the heart of the Central Business District in downtown New Orleans and is within 2 blocks walking distance of the French Quarter, Mississippi River and Warehouse/Arts District.

http://www.windsorcourthotel.com/windso ... DQodrVUJug

Windsor is a great rec . . .

Hotel Monteleone offers the old school charm at the edge of the Quarter but very convenient to the St. Charles streetcar line. I didn't love it because rooms are a little small and not a lot of dresser space and such, but if you're traveling solo, it would be nice (they have an awesome bar off the lobby - the Carousel bar, and it actually spins around . . . slowly).

The Roosevelt is also at the edge of the FQ and was just totally redone in the last couple of years (Waldorf). I stayed there before the renovation and it looks like they've done an amazing job of keeping the old school charm while nonetheless modernizing it.

If I had the choice, I'd stay at the Roosevelt, but the atmosphere at all three will make you feel like you are definitely immersed in New Orleans. You'll be just a couple of minutes (walking) from both the FQ and the St. Charles streetcar line. This will help you get most places, but depending upon where you want to go may determine whether you need a car or can cab it places.

I was there two months ago . . . not a lot new, but who cares. There's so much that's old that will be calling your name. My current favorite in NO (and it's been my favorite for a few years) is Dante's Kitchen . . . across the street from Brigsten's and around the corner from Camilla. It's set an a beautiful old home, lots of Southern charm, great food (leans more Southern than NO/Cajun) and great service and extensive local offerings.

You definitely need to take in one or more of the classic NO restaurants - Galatoire's and Commander's are the two that would be on the top of my list.

I just returned from a weekend in new orleans. If price is not an issue the two nicest hotels imho are the Ritz Carlton or the Windsor Court. You could also do a rental on vrbo.com which worked out great for a large group of my buddies last weekend.

Two can't miss meals for me were Tommys Fine Cuisine and Cochon. Tommys is owned by the ex husband of Irene, of Irene's Cuisine, is every bit as good as irene's and with no wait. Cochon is a cannot miss. Also, check out Kermit ruffins thursday night at vaughns bar in the bywater. Great music and he cooks for you. Red Beans, at least, and usually some Bbq.

Tommy's Fine Cuisine
746 Tchoupitoulas
New Orleans, LA
http://www.tommysneworleans.com/

Thanks for all the ideas so far, folks!

I think places like the Waldorf/Roosevelt might be a little stuffy for what I'm looking for.

I'm only 23, and while I want a great experience, I don't think it necessarily equates to staying at the premier luxury hotel in NoLa.

I really like the look of The Dauphine Orleans, as well as Le Pavillion.

Both seem to be rated very well and priced virtually identical (both a bargain at $1,200 for 7 night plus round trip air fare).

They are both located in the French Quarter (right...?) but are almost a mile apart. Does one location strike anyone as notably better for what I am going for?

Dauphine Orleans
415 Dauphine Street

Le Pavillion
833 Poydras Street

Is there a big difference between these places that I'm not noticing?

Also, what sort of weather am I looking at for my stay?


Thanks!

Le Pavillon is NOT in the FQ--it's in the Central Business District (by the Superdome) and that's still a ways away from the quarter. Not a bad area by any means but if you want to be in the FQ, it's not there.

If you're looking for something a bit younger, you might want to try the W. Generally speaking, these cater to a younger, hipper crowd than the more traditional places like the Windsor Court and I'm sure the one in NOLA is no exception. And it's definitely in the heart of the FQ. I've never been in it but it gets a good rating on Trip Advisor if you care about those things.

W Hotel NOLA
316 Chartres St
New Orleans, Louisiana, 70130

What I really loved about the Monteleone (where I stayed two months ago) is that it is within the French Quarter but on the edge of it . . . only one block from Bourbon. It's such a short walk from bars, and just a few minute walk to the streetcar, and the Carousel bar was open until 1am or so (and packed nightly) which is great if you don't want a late night at the bars. Unless you plan on spending every minute in the FQ, it's a perfect location to enjoy both the FQ and the rest of the city.

You could stay in the Marigny at the Royal Street Inn/R Bar. It's kind of a seedy little B&B owned by one of the members of the Afghan Whigs. There's a lot of good food in that neighborhood too, not to mention music. Unfortunately I think the Vertie Mart burned down not too long ago. You're about a 15 minute walk out of the French Quarter from that area.

We were there a couple months ago and stayed in the CBD at the Intercontinental. Nice hotel but not very "New Orleans-y." It was convenient to the French Quarter and the streetcar though.

The Hotel Monteleone was a stop for drinks for us. Charming bartender, and the cutest little mouse behind the revolving bar, with tiny ink-drop eyes. He looked at me for just a split second and then vanished into a crevice. Being a restaurant and hotel person, the mouse charmed me rather than disgusted me. YMMV.

boudreaulicious wrote:Le Pavillon is NOT in the FQ--it's in the Central Business District (by the Superdome) and that's still a ways away from the quarter. Not a bad area by any means but if you want to be in the FQ, it's not there.

Thanks, I really am totally clueless about the geography of New Orleans.

I think I want to stay out of the central business district, at least for my hotel. I have never visited a city with a central business district that charmed me into wanting to stay there.

boudreaulicious wrote:If you're looking for something a bit younger, you might want to try the W. Generally speaking, these cater to a younger, hipper crowd than the more traditional places like the Windsor Court and I'm sure the one in NOLA is no exception. And it's definitely in the heart of the FQ. I've never been in it but it gets a good rating on Trip Advisor if you care about those things.

Yeah, I find TripAdvisor to be the most content-rich source of reviews for hotels out there. Plus, their ranking system makes it really easy to narrow in on the good place. I will have to check out the W. We have one of those in Chicago, and it strikes me as a little too clubby, but that's not to say the NoLa one won't be different. Thanks for the rec!

BR wrote:What I really loved about the Monteleone (where I stayed two months ago) is that it is within the French Quarter but on the edge of it . . . only one block from Bourbon. It's such a short walk from bars, and just a few minute walk to the streetcar, and the Carousel bar was open until 1am or so (and packed nightly) which is great if you don't want a late night at the bars. Unless you plan on spending every minute in the FQ, it's a perfect location to enjoy both the FQ and the rest of the city.

You make a good case for the Monteleone. How are the interiors and room sizes? I have read conflicting things. I am just one person, so hopefully the room wouldn't feel all the cramped to me? Also, I am all about old world charm, but only if it is not at the expense of things like Wifi, good A/C, water pressure, and all the other little modern touches I have grown to love. Think it is the place for me?

Thanks everyone for the input. You've been much more helpful than those slouches over at City Data and TripAdvisor!

boudreaulicious wrote:Le Pavillon is NOT in the FQ--it's in the Central Business District (by the Superdome) and that's still a ways away from the quarter. Not a bad area by any means but if you want to be in the FQ, it's not there.

If you're looking for something a bit younger, you might want to try the W. Generally speaking, these cater to a younger, hipper crowd than the more traditional places like the Windsor Court and I'm sure the one in NOLA is no exception. And it's definitely in the heart of the FQ. I've never been in it but it gets a good rating on Trip Advisor if you care about those things.

W Hotel NOLA
316 Chartres St
New Orleans, Louisiana, 70130

I was going to recommend the W as well. There are actually two: the W French Quarter is the one I would pick (and is the one that boudreaulicious recommended), because it's got more of the small, intimate, boutique hotel vibe going on, and is tucked between centuries-old buildings on a quiet (relative to Bourbon) street smack in the middle of the FQ, but is just 2 blocks from the insanity of Bourbon Street. Plus I love stepping out of my hotel's lobby & finding myself surrounded by sights, sounds, and tons of eating & drinking options.

The W New Orleans, on the other hand, is a rather standard monolithic highrise hotel building in a quieter, more office-building-y area. However, it's right across the street from the casino, which can be a good or a bad thing , and is very conveniently located...a couple blocks from the FQ, across the street from Mother's (awesome po' boys), much closer to Cochon than the W French Quarter, and just two blocks from the St. Charles streetcar line. Plus it tends to be the cheaper of the two W New Orleans hotels.

When I went to NO this past April, the Sheraton & the W New Orleans were the same price...I picked the Sheraton, and wish I'd picked the W New Orleans. However, next time, I'll spend a bit more and stay at the W French Quarter, and I'm sure I'll have no regrets. Unless my sister leaves her job with Starwood Hotels and can't hook me up with employee discounts anymore...then my decision will be a bit tougher

boudreaulicious already included the W French Quarter's address, but I'll repeat it here for the sake of completeness:

W New Orleans - French Quarter
316 Chartres St
New Orleans, LA 70130
(504) 581-1200

W New Orleans
333 Poydras Street
New Orleans, LA 70130
(504) 525-9444

Actually, if I had my choice I probably would have chosen the W French Quarter because it's more modern and I tend to really like W Hotels . . . the Monteleone is very New Orleans old school charm - beautiful lobby, best hotel bar around, and very retro but modernized. I wanted to stay at the Roosevelt or the W French Quarter, but my travelling companions preferred the price at the Monteleone . . . and the location could not be more perfect. But if you're really trying to immerse yourself in NO and its culture, I think the Monteleone far surpasses the W - it is New Orleans.

As for TripAdvisor, it's not a ton different than LTH -- you pick and choose what to respect based upon your own demands/expectations/likes and go from there. I wrote a very detailed review on the Monteleone in June (under screen name Chicagototheworld) which you can check out for a little more detail. But the pluses of the Monteleone besides old school charm and perfect location are: 1) best water pressure I have had at any hotel in a long time, and 2) great A/C (won't be as big a deal in December, but it was nice at the end of May when temps were in the upper 80s). They also have a passable gym.

I can't remember about the internet b/c I traveled with a portable wifi connection, but there are 32" flat panel tvs in the room. The rooms are very small for 2 people, but would be tolerable with only one person. The decor is old fashioned, but again cleaned and made more modern - you can tell the hotel was renovated recently. If you need a lot of bathroom counter space, you might be disappointed.

You absolutely have to travel down St. Charles in the streetcar . . . through the Garden District, Tulane, etc. Head to Camilla Grill for breakfast. Here's a link to Dante's Kitchen, which I mentioned above: http://danteskitchen.com/.

Have a great trip. It's a wonderful city.

DClose wrote:You make a good case for the Monteleone. How are the interiors and room sizes? I have read conflicting things. I am just one person, so hopefully the room wouldn't feel all the cramped to me? Also, I am all about old world charm, but only if it is not at the expense of things like Wifi, good A/C, water pressure, and all the other little modern touches I have grown to love. Think it is the place for me?

I can tell you at the Dauphine the wifi signal was strong (though my modem needed to be rebooted daily (could be my problem not theirs), air conditioning was excellent, and water pressure fine. Some, if not all, rooms in the Hermann House have whirlpool jets in the tub if that's your kinda thing. I can't speak for the other places being mentioned, but if you're looking for 'charm' you'll be pleased.

We visited the Carousel Bar in the Monteleone, it's definitely a must visit whether you stay there or not. The hotel looked a bit of a step up from Dauphine (different style). but the location is good - you'll be right near Felix Oyster Bar and Bourbon St, plus around a block from the streetcars.

The last couple trips I've stayed here.
http://www.olivierhouse.com/about.htm
Love the old-school/classic atmosphere.
Great location about a block off Bourbon St.
but with no noise/disturbance issues.
Plus they have their own secure parking area.

montleone. no quesiton. have fun

I love the Monteleone however the last time we stayed the service was pretty bad. Towels and things just were not in the room and took a while after calling to get anyone to come to the room. How bout the Royal Sonesta? It is on Bourbon but I have never had a problem with noise. Irvin Mayfields Jazz club is downstairs. I have also stayed at the W in the quarter. It is small and quaint but I liked the Sonesta a bit better.
Check out The Offbeat magazine is definitely the best publication for events and upcoming shows. Nola.com is a great resource as well. Whenever I am in my office I stream WWOZ New Orleans famous public radio station, they give live wire updates of who is playing where.
Gotta agree that you have to go to Vaughns on Thursday night for Kermit!!
Keep us updated!

Danny

I've stayed at The Cornstalk Hotel, right on Royal Street in the French Quarter. It's a small, homey, VERY New Orleans-ish place. I'd most certainly return there in a heartbeat.

Geo

jhawk1 wrote:How bout the Royal Sonesta? It is on Bourbon but I have never had a problem with noise. Irvin Mayfields Jazz club is downstairs. I have also stayed at the W in the quarter. It is small and quaint but I liked the Sonesta a bit better.

I've started to think the same thing after doing some research. The photos looked great, with a beautiful lobby and the rooms were fairly modern, with still a few thoughtful touches here and there. I like the idea of the Monteleone, but I just can't stomach all the floral patterns I see - too old (maybe TOO New Orleans) for me. I will, without a doubt, spend a fair amount of time at their bar however. That place looks awesome.

The W looks great, but I just don't think it is worth the price jump. I'm not worried so much about price, but I am about value. Of course, we all have different opinions on what a good value is.

I have been doing a lot of reading, trying to reassure myself Royal Sonesta is not a trashy hotel (which I thought at first, based on sheer size and the fact it is ground-zero on Bourbon street) and I'm convinced.

I love the look of the huge pool area and the ornate architecture both on the outside, as well as from the courtyard. It just immediately struck me as the kind of place I expected to see, if that makes any sense.

So, I think I'm going with the Royal Sonesta, folks. Unless, of course, anyone urges otherwise!

Now I just have to figure out if I want a side street balcony room or a courtyard balcony room. Such decisions....

Oh yeah...and the fun stuff: where I get to eat and hang for 8 days and 7 nights!

DClose wrote:Now I just have to figure out if I want a side street balcony room or a courtyard balcony room.

Depends on whether you can sleep through carousing drunks on the street at oh-dark-thirty!
Really, trust me on this.

If the indoor courtyard looks pretty, I'd go with that. NO streets can be noisy.

Geo

It's been a while but 10 years ago this coming November, I took my future bride to NOLA and we stayed in a converted slaves quarters in the quarter. It was a small building behind a nice house and it was tight for two but had a kitchen and a living room as well as a second floor bedroom. It did not cost much and I found it using an apartment rental website (no idea now how it find it now...). We could make coffee and heat up a roll for breakfast and the 'fridge kept a bottle of wine cold for our pre-dinner cocktails.... Not too expensive and loaded with NOLA charm.
have a great visit!

Geo wrote:

DClose wrote:Now I just have to figure out if I want a side street balcony room or a courtyard balcony room.

Depends on whether you can sleep through carousing drunks on the street at oh-dark-thirty!
Really, trust me on this.

If the indoor courtyard looks pretty, I'd go with that. NO streets can be noisy.

Geo

Well, I plan to be part of that carousing drunk mob at least a couple nights...

But I think I to want a courtyard room. It is supposed to be the most quiet. However, I am booking this thing through Expedia (the price of booking through them is less including flight than the hotel alone booking through the Royal Sonesta website) so I'm not sure how seriously my requests will be heeded.

DClose wrote:But I think I to want a courtyard room. It is supposed to be the most quiet. However, I am booking this thing through Expedia (the price of booking through them is less including flight than the hotel alone booking through the Royal Sonesta website) so I'm not sure how seriously my requests will be heeded.

Call the hotel after you book--once they have your reservation from Expedia, you should still be able to communicate requests directly. Love the Royal Sonesta by the way--great pool!!

Plus 1 on the Monteleone. I've stayed there several times, my favorite NO hotel.

I went to law school in NOLA many years ago, and I have been back for business and pleasure several times (although not in ages). I cannot recommend a specific B&B, but I have stayed at several at various times. Staying in a vintage French Quarter of Marginy building is about as New Orleans as you can get. Look into something that fits your budget.

I'm not sure if it's been mentioned in this thread, but you really need a car to get the best of New Orleans. Surely, there are issues of safety (regardless), but more important there are too many cool places that requre a car to get to.

Finally, do not poo-pah the CBD out of hand, its New Orleans, so it's got some pretty interesting stuff here and there.

OK, now it's time to talk about things to do. I guess Uglasich's (sp?) is gone, eh? Tragedy. But he told me his kids had zero interest in taking the place over.

Streetcar out to the zoo is a hoot: the alligator pond is worth the trip, as is standing on the 'mountain'--the highest place in NO. (Is the albino alligator still alive?) The trip out provides superb looks at a very elegant, mostly by-gone NO: stately homes, wide streets, etc.

I'd never visit NO without a trip to Acme Oyster: stand at the bar, drink a Jax from the bottle, and visit with the shucker--those guys got some *stories*!!

Geo

There is a small hotel at the Douglas St end of the FQ that is a hidden gem. It's Le Richelieu and it's been there forever. The rooms are small, somewhat dark, and not in pristine shape; but, if you want a caring and thoughtful staff, FREE PARKING, a comfy bar, an adequate kitchen (with a cook of 42 years' experience), and a small pool, this is it.

It's so old school that you leave your key with the front desk each time you leave the hotel. And the folks are there to help you have a good time.

It's located in the FQ so all the eateries, shops, bars, and tourist traps are within walking distance. It's close to the river and Cafe Du Monde.

Rates are very reasonable.

Geo wrote:Streetcar out to the zoo is a hoot: the alligator pond is worth the trip, as is standing on the 'mountain'--the highest place in NO. (Is the albino alligator still alive?) The trip out provides superb looks at a very elegant, mostly by-gone NO: stately homes, wide streets, etc.
Geo

There is also a water taxi on the Mississippi from the Aquarium to the Zoo.

In May 2006, Mrs. JiLS and I went to the still Katrina-devastated NOLA, and had to use a combination of buses and feet to get out to the zoo (St. Charles street car was out of order, at the time). This is one of my favorite, unrepeatable memories. The zoo was, as far as we could tell, closed. However, they were signing up kids for some sort of summer zoological education thing, and so they were "open" (i.e., the swinging iron gates weren't locked). In my usual fashion, I decided, let's just go in and walk around until somebody throws us out (this works at wedding receptions in the Drake, government office buildings, interesting work sites, and myriad other places you'll wish you'd just gone into, damn the consequences, when you are on your death bed). We paid nothing, got a good look at most of what the zoo had to offer, wandered all the paths, saw all the animals without another human being in site (I actually think that was a significant value-add for sneaking into a zoo off hours). Then, we got nervous and slinked out. But, honest to God, not one person asked one question. Damn, that was fun. Try this.

(Oh, yeah. OP was looking for food-centric ideas. Can't eat any of the animals at the zoo. Didn't try it, but assume this to be the case. YMMV.)

Also, the streetcar to the zoo will take you by Copeland's, the founder of Popeye's Fried Chicken, where you can stop by and have some pretty good chicken.

Geo


Copeland's Cheesecake Bistro
www.copelandscheesecakebistro.com
2001 Saint Charles Avenue,
New Orleans - (504) 593-9955