With hotel food everywhere improved dramatically over the rubber chicken and peas of yore, I was really looking forward to going to a friend's seder at the gorgeous
Westin Chicago North Shore in Wheeling. I had been to a promotional meal catered by the hotel's kosher kitchen, and it was first-rate. I expected the regular kitchen to do even better.
First to last, it was awful. This was not a kosher meal, but my friend had ordered a traditional Jewish menu, or so she thought. My friend hosts an annual large seder for a mix of non-Jews and Jews of varying levels of observance. Obviously, no one attends who insists on strictly kosher fare, but some, including the hostess's daughter, do avoid
chometz (yeasted foods) and
kitniot (legumes) during Passover. We were a group of 42.
Not only did the Westin make mistakes that you would not expect from a hotel that's trying to be
the place for north suburban Jewish events, but the food itself was also pretty bad.
First of all, we arrived to find some of the food already on the table at each place setting, including gefilte fish and the hard-boiled eggs. This is not appropriate for a seder, when more than an hour's service precedes the time when these items can be eaten.
So we sat there watching the fish dry up and I wondered just how long it had been sitting out before we got there. I did eat it, and for my taste it was overly sweet, as was the horseradish with it.
The chicken soup was lukewarm, also sweetish and strongly flavored with what tasted like ginger to me. My friend inquired and somebody came out from the kitchen with a list of innocuous ingredients, but since it's doubtful that the chef who actually made the soup was there at the time, I'm not inclined to believe it.
Guests had been offered an entree choice of chicken, beef, fish or vegetarian. My friend is not a foodie and I'm sure she told the hotel that she wanted a "seder dinner." Here is the menu:
Poultry: Herb Crusted Free Range Half Chicken accompanied by Grilled Asparagus and Potato Latkes
Fish: Potato Crusted Halibut Roasted Halibut Fillet, Topped with Thinly Sliced "Potato Scales" Finished with Sun Dried Tomato Coulis, accompanied by Chickpea Onion Pancake* and Petite Spring Vegetables
Beef: Seasoned Brisket of Beef, Slow Roasted until Tender with Roasted Wild Mushrooms and Caramelized Shallots with Red Wine Demiglace, accompanied by Oven Roasted New Potatoes and Petite Spring Vegetables
Vegetarian: Grilled Portobello Filet and Vegetable Brochette With Scallion Potato Pancakes and Green Herb Coulis
I did not personally see or taste either the fish or vegetarian options. However, both the chicken and beef were served with overcooked asparagus and a lumpy starchy object that might have been an attempt at kugel.
Several of us who ordered chicken were kept waiting until some 30 minutes after the last of the others were served. When it came, it was dry and rubbery. Meanwhile, several of those who were served first were discovering that their chicken was seriously undercooked. I saw these plates and can vouch that this was not a misunderstanding about red color near the bone -- this was bright pink chicken meat. Ultimately, a chef came out, looked at the plates, agreed the chicken was undercooked, and, at my friend's urging, they took five dinners off the bill.
While I was waiting for my chicken, I tasted some of the beef. It was moist, tender and thickly coated with black pepper. I would have described this dish as "pepper-crusted beef." As that, it was fine. It was not fine if what you were supposed to be serving was Jewish-style brisket. While I can see that my friend may have misinterpreted the menu description, food this spicy does not seem appropriate as routine banquet fare.
Those who ate the fish and vegetarian dinners also complained the food was too peppery, as did some of those who had chicken that wasn't either under- or overcooked.
Dessert was almond macaroons and ice cream. My friend wouldn't have cared about ice cream being served after meat (there was also butter on the table), but her daughter wasn't happy that the ice cream came in a waffle cup.
I don't normally expect a hotel to know all about what is and isn't permitted for Passover, and, of course, people who don't follow the letter of the law all have their own idiosyncrasies about what they do observe, but it strikes me as extremely odd that this Westin, which boasts of two extensive kosher kitchens and an executive chef who is supposedly extensively trained in kashruth, couldn't do better than that. I certainly expect them to at least ask their customer about what she expects.
I'm also amazed that this large, very upscale hotel can't manage to properly cook banquet fare for a group of 42 people.
The service was very good; a server was always in the room. There was some difficulty over the dinner for one invited guest who was ill and unable to attend. The hostess send his dinner home to him and the manager came out and explained that it was against their policy. The meal was ordered and paid for -- I don't see why anyone would object to allowing it to be carried out. The family had brought containers, so it wasn't a matter of the hotel not having them. Ultimately, the manager agreed to look the other way, but I wonder why it was even an issue. For that matter, why not be prepared to box up leftovers, something almost every restaurant does as a matter of course?
This was not the only seder in the hotel that night, but I did not encounter anyone from the others to ask how their food was.
Anyway, I go to a fair number of catered events at hotels, and it's been a couple of decades since I went to one as bad as this.
*I doubt my friend would have noticed this or realized that chickpeas aren't kosher for Passover for Ashkenazim, and I don't know if this was actually served, but at least some of the people at the seder would have been distressed by eating kitniot.