"You can really taste the tree in the meat," said a friend who knows from barbecue. Intrigued, I checked out Moxee this week (free parking in the Maxwell Street garage for the month of December, by the way).

This is some really good stuff. And I'll start with the coleslaw, which has cumin, cayenne, jalapeno, and cilantro, and the cornbread with citrus zest, and the handcut fries. No shortcuts here or on the rest of the menu, featuring house-fried tortilla chips, planked salmon, three sisters hash, fresh salsas, etc.
The meats come pre-sauced (at least on the sandwiches). Pulled pork was thoroughly perfumed with green hickory, barky, and excellent, in a high tier in the city. Brisket was probably a holdover from the previous night but one could detect flashes of brilliance. Moxee was really concepted as a complement to the Mad Mouse brewery (just rolling now, with two selections, and nicely selected guests), and I wasn't prepared to be impressed by the kolsch, but it was pleasant, light and easy-drinking and went really well with the food. I hope whomever is in the kitchen (kudos there, really) lasts to match the brew program.